1933 Half-Penny Overdate ??

[ausjack]

maybe adding more stronger lights on an angle onto the coin might over power the existing light so you get the required shadowing, just a thought

[ausjack]

Also is there any adjustments you can make on the computer to cut out the light :scratch_one-s_head:

[Basil]

Also is there any adjustments you can make on the computer to cut out the light :scratch_one-s_head:

I think the damage is done when the Pic. is taken AJ so SW can only do so much to alter the Pic.Its the brightness of the LED and the angle it shines at,designed mainly for glass slides i think.It has a plastic guard(red arrow) over the top,if i could get that off it would throw a less concentrated beam and i could possibly adapt a filter over it but its part of the section where the LED sits.

http://www.maginon.com/produktinfo/au/Maginon-UM-2000/

http://www.hktdc.com/suppliers-products/6-Lens-Digital-Microscope/en/1X0006I0/3057679/

Its the Aldi one they sold a year or 2 back,completely different,also different SW, to the normal Aldi one they sell regularly but its great for super close ups. I haven't seen them for sale on Ebay or anywhere else but the Stamp & Coin guys will grab them when the word gets out,2.0MP(5.0MP according to the manufacturer) Microscope for under $100.

[ausjack]

Gee there're a strange looking set up basil but as long as they do the job :winkextra:
I'm sure with a little tinkering you'll work the light out, maybe see if you can put a bit of paper or bluetack over that little light
It's a shame you can't turn it off with the little "light selector" button.

[ausjack]

Even a bit of tissue over it and if it looks like it might fall out use a wire bread tie to hold it up.

[Basil]

It's a shame you can't turn it off with the little "light selector" button.

Yes you can turn it off AJ but having trouble getting a decent shot with a external light source,i've tried with a flexible USB LED light i have but that's extremely bright with shadows as well. No dramas,i'll experiment as time allows.
Powerful  Microscope for close ups,not much good for sections of a Coin or Stamp but i can use use the normal USB scope for that.
All the Pics. in this thread are on the two lowest magnifications,100x & 200x,when you go up a lens you can see dust particles on the Coins,amazing Technology these days.

[ausjack]

Another idea is to take it out into sunlight and see how that goes.

Yes technology is getting pretty amazing these days and somethings are getting cheaper all the time.

[Basil]

Looks like a couple of dots from rust/cleaning Die pits in front of the Kings Crown that look unique,i'll have a look at some more 33 halves when i get a chance.
Interesting to see if someone finds a similar Coin,both from the dots perspective and the last 3.  

   

[Basil]

I found another possible O/D Coin,appreciate any comments/opinions on the subject.
It doesn't seem to be a 'double die' or 'double strike' varieties type but i may be wrong with that assumption.

Similar to other Coins sold as 33 Half overdates.
https://www.drakesterling.com/19332-overdate-halfpenny


Edit..Added a couple(6) more Pics. from a Pro. scope for future reference before i store the Coin.
Definitely a re-entered 3 as can be seen by the lower loop but was it to clumsily eradicate the remains of the  top loop of the 2 or for some other reason.Top Loop seems to have remains of the tip of the 2 showing underneath which shows under high magnification.

 

 

[Unicorn]

Nice clear photos Basil, looks the same as Eric's one.

[Basil]

Thanks Uni,its similar to the one my Brother has,Pics.earlier this Thread but his has a bit of a tip,mine seems to have remnants of a tip.
The eg in the Victorian Museum(Thanks Walter) has a defined tip(see Pic.) but surely there are more out there somewhere as its a circulated Coin.

[fred lever]

Hi Basil, it would be good if you could do some further research on the 33 1/2d.
I looked through my references and while there is a fair bit done on the penny not much on the 1/2d.
The disturbance around the last 3  looks like part of the general hubbing problems the mint guys had while date changing tooling.
Paul Holland did a masterly job on looking at the penny (JNNA vol 13) and that inspired me to repeat a lot of what he did and reported in CAB May 14. The point was the same moves as made on the penny hubbing were carried out on the 1/2d hubbing. The 1/2d hubbing turned out to be more carefully done on the 1/2 but there is a definite bunch of dies off a hub(s) that show renmants of a different last digit just like the penny.
David Briggs noted this in his copper book, page 42 1st edition with typical photos.
 Looking at photos of the penny varieties then gives you  a good idea of what to look for in the 1/2d. Your photo is very interesting as on first look, and viewed in isolation, it just appears to be a die that is suffering from splintering of the edge of the die recess around the 3 giving the bevelled change of plane from the field of the coin up the side of the 3. However in the context of knowing the hubbing problems in that year and the gross appearances of the 3 on the penny it is logical that the 1/2d will have  just as many appearances. With a  striking of 4 million or so that's a lot of hubs and dies to go wrong and somebody has to be brave enough to gather together thousands of coins and go through them to find different type as reflected on the coins.
Now there is a challenge!
It wont be me! I don't have enough time.
Your photo shows the bevelling around the loop and a "shadow" of the pointy bit that is more evident on Unis  pix and the example I showed in an article in CAB back in April 13 when I tried to list all of what I called "overdates" on Aussie coins.
If you need a copy of any of my articles I can email you pdfs, the JNNA article by Paul is a download from their site.
Cheers, Fred.

[Basil]

Hi Basil, it would be good if you could do some further research on the 33 1/2d.
I looked through my references and while there is a fair bit done on the penny not much on the 1/2d.
The disturbance around the last 3  looks like part of the general hubbing problems the mint guys had while date changing tooling.
Cheers, Fred.

Hi Fred,Thanks for taking the time to reply,i agree the doubling is part of the Die and not a double strike or similar. 
The Dealer i showed the original Pics. of my brothers Coin(last Pic.) to seemed to think they could have been clumsily trying to obliterate the top loop of the 2 as its very similar to the Victorian Museum Coin minus the top tip.
On that subject its amazing in this age of USB Scopes no other specimen has turned up as this eg.(VM) was circulated before being 'found'.

https://collections.museumvictoria.com.au/items/57452

When comparing the final 33 three to the final 32  two you can see where the doubling may have come from.

http://www.stampboards.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=6287


Anyway i won't take up your challenge,i will have less time than you once the Football start next Month but i will post any finds i come across here.
I'm back buying bulk lots again which is crazy especially with the Oz. $ so low,(last night Paypal was 63.? US cents which is too low)  but the thrill of the chase and all that.
AtB

 
Brothers Coin(now mine) from earlier in the Thread.

[serenitystan]

Question regarding 1933/2 overdate half-penny...Was it that the mint filled the 2 with metal and then punched a 3 over it?. Was this done to the die or the hub. Would not have filling the 2 with base metal cut the working life of a die/hub?..Where all the half pennies from 1930 to 39 from the same Master...1922/1 threepence is a true overdate where you can see two numbers clearly...

[Basil]

Question for Fred or Neal,or others,i try not to go down the Rabbit Hole with the Technical side of Hubs/Dies etc,i have enough trouble ID Coins as it is.
Interesting regarding the 1922/1,i read a Book many years ago where the head of the Melb. Mint at the time categorically stated,in writing,that it was not a overdate,bit confusing for the Numismatists at the time that had the Coin sitting in front of them and forking out big £'s to have it photographed.