Grading $1 coins

Started by Guest1595, April 02, 2014, 10:46:58 AM

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Guest1595

Hi, not sure if anyone has posted a thread on this before, as I can't find it using the search option, but can anyone shed light on the high points on the Australian $1 coin which wears first.

An image of the obverse and reverse side of an Unc $1 with some coloured highlights to demonstrate those areas would be great, if anyone is kind enough to post. If we could also consider making it a sticky post for others to use as a reference tool, that will also be much appreciated.

Cheers..

Fulvio

Quote from: 'Guest1595' pid='45494' dateline='1396397818'...high points on the Australian $1 coin which wears first.

Presumably you mean standard MoR's?

I doubt anyone's ever given it much thought really. They're plentiful in UNC for all issued years, and nobody really cares about grading circulated examples.

But I'm happy to be proven wrong. ;)
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ausjack

:welcome: G and hope you enjoy the site mate, you could do a little test your self and get a little roller or put some paint on some paper and just touch the coin and see where they are or a really rough way would be to run something hard across the face and see where it marks it, cheek and crown are norally some of the higher points that wear first and that goes for pre-decimal as well, as for the roo's no idea sorry but I might have to test them my self :winkextra:
A wise person knows there is something to learn from everyone.

Unicorn

:welcome: to the forum.

With the roos I normally look to see if the top roo's eye can be seen. Then perhaps wear on the 3rd roo's face. But, in saying that I've seen UNC examples where the top roo's head is featureless, so they might be weak strikes etc.

interest

Quote from: 'Guest1595' pid='45494' dateline='1396397818'Hi, not sure if anyone has posted a thread on this before, as I can't find it using the search option, but can anyone shed light on the high points on the Australian $1 coin which wears first.

Cheers..
just get a bit of sand paper lay it flat & rub the coin over it a few times.
That'll show you.

Fulvio

Quote from: 'interest' pid='45536' dateline='1396421217'just get a bit of sand paper lay it flat & rub the coin over it a few times.
That'll show you.

And as a bonus, you can list the resulting "Rare Mint Error" on FeePay and make a fortune! :dodgy:
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Fordprefect

Welcome to the forum Guest1595.:wavemulticolor:
Quote from: 'Fulvio' pid='45498' dateline='1396399583'
Quote from: 'Guest1595' pid='45494' dateline='1396397818'...high points on the Australian $1 coin which wears first.
Presumably you mean standard MoR's?
I doubt anyone's ever given it much thought really. They're plentiful in UNC for all issued years, and nobody really cares about grading circulated examples.
But I'm happy to be proven wrong. ;)
2000 Mob of Roos Mule.:angel:
Sheldon Graded of course.:idea:
_____________________________________________________

As most are saying you either collect Unc or Circulated.

The metal that the Aussie circulation coins are made of is tough.
Contact marks are the worst offenders than wear.

A 2011 Light Circulation
The high points to the Tiara are first.
Then as circulation continues the wear radiates.
Just a touch on high points of tiara on this example.

Reverse
Wear generally starts at main Roo's hip.
The Mint damage and security company handling are pretty bad.

Close up of area, mostly contact wear at this early stage.

A well circulated, also 2011 reverse
Rob the Elder

markn

Founder: Australian Coin Forum
The Australian Coin Collecting Blog

Guest1595

Yes thanks for your informative post Rob.... I'm sure this would help all those who collect the Yr 2000 $1 mules as well, in terms of verifying gradings on ebay etc...
Have always wondered how sellers have come up with the grading of the $1 mules... Whether it's mainly based on wear or bag marks..

And thanks all for the warm welcome..

ausjack

mmm now your sort of talking about something a bit different as there's a lot that makes a coin, eg how centred it is also come into it when talking about mules :winkextra:
A wise person knows there is something to learn from everyone.

Guest1595

Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='45565' dateline='1396441811'mmm now your sort of talking about something a bit different as there's a lot that makes a coin, eg how centred it is also come into it when talking about mules :winkextra:



Hi ausjack, from what i've read, I always thought that a perfectly centred mule will attract a premium in price, but the underlying grade will remain unchanged...hence, the importance of knowing what to look for ( high points which are prone to wear) when grading these circulated $1 coins.

Fulvio

Quote from: 'Fordprefect' pid='45544' dateline='1396429268'The Mint damage and security company handling are pretty bad.

Good post, great pics mate.

G, apologies if I sounded flippant, I didn't mean to be. But certainly wear is nowhere near the issue it is on predecimals.. the shocking bagmarks we see on almost all coins is far more detracting IMO, as the pics clearly show.

Oh, and welcome to the forum.. That name threw me, didn't look like a member name.. :angel:
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ausjack

Quote from: 'Guest1595' pid='45562' dateline='1396441255'Yes thanks for your informative post Rob.... I'm sure this would help all those who collect the Yr 2000 $1 mules as well, in terms of verifying gradings on ebay etc...
Have always wondered how sellers have come up with the grading of the $1 mules... Whether it's mainly based on wear or bag marks..

And thanks all for the warm welcome..
Hi ausjack, from what i've read, I always thought that a perfectly centred mule will attract a premium in price, but the underlying grade will remain unchanged...hence, the importance of knowing what to look for ( high points which are prone to wear) when grading these circulated $1 coins.

Sorry didn't realise you were buying mules off ebay that aren't slabbed but still graded or are you trying to grade it, I'm a bit lost in your question now sorry :scratch_one-s_head:
A wise person knows there is something to learn from everyone.

emu666

Guest, from what I can remember, most of the early ones you purchased had a lot of lustre so it will be a bit easier. Wear will show a little earlier on the obverse so look for a change of colour on Her Majesty's cheek due to the first bit of metal missing due to wear.

I've indicated the area here:


ausjack

yeah that's what I was talking about, thanks for that Peter :good:
A wise person knows there is something to learn from everyone.