I don't think I've seen any discussion of this but was prompted to give it some thought by the listing of https://www.sterlingcurrency.com.au/church1930penny (https://www.sterlingcurrency.com.au/church1930penny)
I had a look at the two PCGS has: https://www.pcgs.com/cert/38690913 (https://www.pcgs.com/cert/38690913) and https://www.pcgs.com/cert/30808335 (https://www.pcgs.com/cert/30808335)
I could see what looked like little markers on both the obverses and reverses but nothing that seemed to match. Not sure where to see photos of any other examples either - I assume that one of those coins was in the Benchmark Collection in 2014.
Walter(he's been quiet lately) is the resident expert on the 1930 Penny,i'm just a interested observer but i hope you get some replies.
Hullo Mr T.
I had a look at the English obverse a cpuple of months ago, and updated my series of articles and papers on the 1930 in CAB.
Yes, i would like to find some markers on the english obverse die used on the 1930!
We have narrowed the likely obverse die used as serial #78 and that particular die was involved in pressing 1929, 1930 and 1931 dated coins.
The problem is genuine 1930 english obverse coins are pretty thin on the ground and the two i have examined in some detail dont show any particular die markers that can then be hopefully found in a 1929 or 1931 dated coin and positively ID the die.
Have a read of my update in February 2020 CAB page 22. For further background reading i have a bibliography attached to the article. The subject is very complex and boils down to understanding what was going on at the Melbourne Mint with hub and die production. Once you get your head around that subject the various die pairings and die varieties become easier to understand.
The thrust of research at the moment by several people including me is recognising coins struck from the known serial # dies and characterising them by die and/or hub markers.
Where there is a gross marker such as the repeating die defects on the reverse 1930 dies, three mentioned in the update article, recognition becomes easy. The obverse dies used were much more stable with few gross defects if any.
This is a subject that you can become immersed in!
Cheers Fred.
Yes,i should have included Fred in the 'resident expert' remark of mine after all the time/research he has done.
Does anyone know what has happened to Walter?,i haven't seen him Post or recieved an Email about his auctions for Months.
Thanks Basil, yes thousands of hours of research and lots of articles published on the subject, probably do let me just squeeze into the definition of "eggs-spurt" even if just self appointed!!
Anyway, regarding the English Obverse 1930's somebody can correct me here: I have only ever found THREE different examples of this die pair over 20 years of knowing what i was looking at. The SAME coins may keep bobbing up in auction, magazine and textbooks.
If i can give them a name,
PCGS 38690913
PCGS 30808335
The one in Briggs copper book.
Yes it would appear there are about six or more of them, but when you look at the available images, you realise by the coin marks you are looking at the SAME coins over and over.
Yes, i have handled about 20 of them, BUT, those coins were FAKES usually converted 1936's.
ONE of them i saw about the year 2000 i stupidly dismissed as a fake, because it had an English obverse, how i wish i could have another look at it now!
It may have been one of those brilliant "conversions" done by that guy whose name escapes me at the moment, a master forger.
Anyway i'm rambling.
Fred.
Fred, are you thinking David Gee?
I think it odd that the three known 1930 English obverse pennies are all in much higher grade than the general run of the mill Indian obverse coins which mostly turn up in gfine or worse. It's as if the English obverses were minted or released later than the Indians :scratch_one-s_head:
Sterling + Currency has a 1930 London PCGS XF 40 for sale with a interesting story about the coin..
Thanks guys,
1/ UNI, the forger I have forgotten about was not David Gee. Gee was a hustler and a con man and loved gold coins and relieving "coin collectors" and "experts" of big wads of money by knocking out replicas of stamps and coins and banknotes . He is one of my heroes of Australian Numismatics and I wont say any more about that because stamp and banknote people just don't want to know! I don't think he ever contemplated any Penny, not worth the connivance/money/fun ratio. The coppers that did him over only found the dies for spurious gold coins and dodgy 2/- bits.
The guy I am trying to remember simply made altered 1930 pennies as a hobby for a small cost and was an artist at it. He technically did not know much about coins but was a genius with shop work and altered mostly 1936 dates to 1930. His work is superb. I am killing myself because I have a reference to his work and simply cannot find .
2/ Auto, the Two coins about at the moment with the grading numbers are in good nick because they were put aside pretty early on by collectors that knew what an English Obverse was! The third coin I can see is a well corroded and cleaned item in about Fine. So, I can isolate TWO coins in VF or better, but you mention THREE? is one of the three you count actually a same coin appearing in different venues twice?
Released later? no, please, all of the 1930 date coins were minted over a two year period and released with the 1931 job order for the Government.
3/Stan, yep that's one of the 2 PCGS coins I can count.
Cheers, Fred.
Fred, You are no doubt correct about me seeing the same coin twice. Around the time the Benchmark collection was sold I remember seeing photos of two English obverse 30's and felt at the time they would have graded gVF in the ANDA OZ system. One of the coins I saw is probably the one Stan spoke about but, it's obvious that coin would only grade VF, I must have had a wine or three that night.
I remember reading an article in the last couple of years about that forger you mentioned. It was written by his son who wrote about how his Father came to Australia as a migrant and used his skills to earn a few extra bob, it was all on the up and up and people sort out his services. I'm sure the article was in CAB, and no, I can't remember his name either, wine will do that. I'll try and dig out the mag tomorrow.
Hi Fred, Had no luck finding that article but, did stumble onto this pic of a 1930 English obverse penny sold at Nobles auction in 1998. Is it the coin you described as being the " third coin" in your previous post? CAB magazine reported it sold again at Nobles auction in 2008.
(https://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10064/191/1930_Penny_Reverse_English_obv_Nobles_1998.jpg)(https://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10064/191/1930_Penny_English_obv_Nobles_1998.jpg)
Hi Auto, yep that's the third example.
I remember it being described as having "some carbon spots".
I would say its been cleaned with brasso and shined up to get the green spots off. Those are pits marks.
Anyway, its is excruciatingly rare no matter what condition it is in.
Fred.
Coin on Ebay(USA) that is a worry,last 2 numbers are iffy but the fakes are getting better...Thoughts?
(https://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10136/493/1930.jpg)
(https://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10136/493/1930_obv.jpg)
Rim beads are all wrong.
0 in date is too thin.
Double rim evident on reverse.
etc etc.
Definitely fake.
Basil what a beautiful example.
I will run it through the "Lever" identification process and report back later today.
Fred.
OK, I made the usual checks and find the coin is a fantasy.
The reverse falls at the first test hurdle as the outer bead count is 195.
The bead count should be 174 denoting a "London" source die.
That is why as Ecchy noted the beads look odd.
Yes the "0" is the wrong shape more like the hub shape of the 1920 dies.
The obverse is a stock "English" 177 bead design as used from 1931 to 1936.
I'll send my work sheet #128 on this coin to Basil and Ecchy.
There is no need to examine the coin in any more detail, it is not a Melbourne Mint product.
Fred.
The shape of the last 2 digits in the date are wrong for sure. The fields don't show any obvious signs of date alteration, it's a good effort.
Hi Acrellin, and all,
I have a previous die struck version with the same rim 195 beads.
That old one is not so sophisticated, with poorer formed letters and numerals.
This one is a much better effort and probably die struck as well.
Earlier fake dies were spark erosion formed, what we are looking at this time looks like computer mill formed.
Hence the upgrade in design.
They have used a different date reverse coin with CBL as the pattern and scanned earlier shape numbers into the file.
Ditto with the obverse by using a post 31 coin as a scan pattern.
All they need to do now is scan a genuine 1930 coin into file and mill the rim and numbers right and we will all be in the poop!
That is WHY it is so important for the DIES of rare coins to be typed and recognised.
We all know which 3 dies were used in the 1930 series and the fakers need to include the fine details of each to get a leg up.
They may be deliberately pressing subtle fakes at the moment for some reason and not exact replicas, hence the old 195 bead rim.
Maybe to comply with "fantasy" and not "forgery".
If they get it better the only way to be surer will be to do "X-Ray" scanning of a coin to determine metal content and period metals not just measure the coin for correct die type.
Fred.
Now Fred. if the slimeballs have the ability to make a computer mill formed 1930 with the right die pairings then they will take that little extra step of getting the right metal content by buying bucket loads of VG pennies from the early to mid 1930s at scrap value and just melt them to get the right alloy; XRF analysis won't detect that as the alloy was unchanged during that period and it is much easier than trying to get pure copper, tin and zinc and melting the exact quantities of each.
If they scan a genuine 1930 (or better yet a couple of examples) they will have all the fine markers and if they compare their example to scans such as Trueview of other genuine coins then they will identify the genuine die markers from any distinguishing marks acquired in circulation. A bit of computer wizardry (and a decent understanding of what different grade coins should look like) and they will sharpen the details of their say F grade genuine scans to mill dies in every grade from VG to AU. Jingle them in their pockets for a few days to a few months to add individual differences to each coin and then speed up the toning to make them look 90 years old. They might even put them in the poop to take the red off them; then we will be in the poop trying to spot the fakes from the real deal.
Perhaps a "coin sniffer" that the TPGs use to detect artificial toning will be the last tool available to detect the fakes.
Neil! We are all doomed!!
Yes, this is exercising my brain a bit. In that latest coin they seem to have avoided making an "exact" copy.
That leaves room for speculation as to why.
Also using an English obverse is a red flag.
They better not use a copy coin that I have mapped for circulation marks other wise I will know!
The obvious problem there is I dont have a map of every 1930!
Only about 100 of them.
Crap.
As well as putting fake circulation marks they will have to age, tone and imbed gunk into the corners and crevices of the details.
A "washed clean" look as that dud has is another red flag.
I agree about the metal content using similar age coins for stock strip, would they go that extra step of manufacturing?
Maybe for a $100,000 coin like a 1930 English obverse?
This could threaten the future of high value rare coins.
Every one would have to have the full battery of tests to prove age, before auction.
Fred.
Hi Fred, not hard to pick up circulated pennies at scrap value and the biggest advantage of those pennies over making the bronze mix from scratch is the impurity/trace element factor. If they buy some copper or tin or zinc at Bunnings Shanghai store it won't be 100.0000% pure and the impurities may be trace elements that were never in the ores mined and smelted in Australia. Remember the Mickelburgs in WA case with the Perth mint gold. There was some gold that was supposed to be from that theft that was found, only problem is that analysis of that gold found it didn't match the signature of the Perth gold. Now gold is highly refined (3 nines or better) compared to say copper so whatever metal the fakers use will have a fair level of the wrong impurities. For $1000 I can buy 5000 (or more) scrap pennies and have enough bronze to make a few hundred of each of the scarcer pennies of that era ('25, 30, 30 English, both 31 Indians) and still have enough bronze left to make a stack of 31 Unicorns. What does it cost to mill dies once they have the equipment and techniques down pat?
And they could still use any of the coins that you have mapped as once they scan a few themselves they will know which are genuine die markers and which are giveaway circulation marks and just erase them from their map prior to computer milling the dies.
Buy why should they stop with the pennies, just get a bucket of scrap sterling silver and start making '32s, '33s etc.
I thought many years ago that fake 1905 half crowns were made with melted British silver coins but I might be wrong.
MrT, the Chinese mints will be pushing out those coins by the bucket load as we speak!
While our local lads in the past years would knock out a few 2 bobs or pommy crowns from lead alloy, the Chinese have been at it for 1000's years.
They can make any coins in any grade of silver you like.
That is the main buisness, Chinese love gold and silver and it is legal for them to make the coins.
Government approved so long as they pay the taxes on replicas.
How many you want, what grade? No ploblem!
We have all seen the web sites with mounds of coins for sale.
That is why in Australia I would be very carefull of any 37/38 crown, 35 Centenary.
The Centenary coins are a special problem as the were not as carefully made as production coins and genuine variations in strike and rim shapes abound.
I have not focussed on those (well I did have a bash at the Centenary helping another specialist) , but have dud ones in my counterfeit collection.
Neil is very suspicious of some high grade Australian silver coins and has pointed out coins of different dates but with the same circulation marks!!
I think this is a bigger problem than realised hence the special attention given to any recent coin, copper or silver, with odd die/circulation marks that repeat through onto other dates!
That brings us back to 30 and 31 pennys and how we have to be very careful not to get sucked in by overseas or local forgers.
Fred.
I shall have to get my 1930's out and put up and see what you say about them.
Always happy to see any 1930 images and put them through the "Lever" fitness test!
Fred.
Waiting with interest.
Here are the scans of my two 1930 pennies:
(https://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10120/1930_RAM_Certified_Penny_Rev.jpg)(https://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10120/1930_RAM_Certified_Penny_Obv.jpg)
This is my second 1930 penny:
(https://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10120/1930_Penny_Not_Certified_Rev.jpg)(https://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10120/1930_Penny_Not_Certified_Obv.jpg)
What can you tell me about them please. I would be interested.
Very nice
Thanks Goldie I will get a chance tomorrow to put them through the mill!
Fred.
I had a look at both images in post #27.
Both show coins with 174 bead reverses and 178 bead obverses.
The strikes are typical and sharp with well defined rims and beads.
The reverses are of two different varieties.
1/ the "certified" coin being a type V2 from die #S74.
2/ the other coin being a type V1 from die #75.
Thus you have 2 of the 4 possible varieties. Well done!
Both coins carry circulation marks that characterise each for further identification if placed in the market.
Stereoscopic comparison with known coins shows the position of the 3 and 0 vary within the acceptable range, including allowance for image distortion in the medium. The die markers that define the varieties are well defined, e.g. "dot F" , "3 tip", small rim beads. See my last update on the 1930 varieties in CAB for more info.
While i dont care much about grade they look like like "Fine" grade to me.
Each coin has corrosion spots that need to be slowed down right now.
I would recommend a good wash in soapy water, rinse in hot water, pat dry and a very light coat of beeswax.
That will not disturb the patina or clean any stains off but will discourage the green grot a bit!
I see nothing that alerts me or suggests fakery so call both coins genuine.
Cheers, Fred.
Thanks for your comments.
Between the two coins, the total cost was $40,000.00.
One has been certified by the RAM and the other although checked out by the RAM they wouldn't authenticate in writing due to "public liability".
Both purchased from Belinda Downie over eight years.
Here is one for sale that has been vetted by Fred.
Australia 1930 Penny Good Fine PCGS VF30 (https://www.sterlingcurrency.com.au/australia-1930-penny-good-fine-pcgs-vf30)
RAM? Public liability? sounds like the sort of public service/OHS crap I was served up with the last time
i asked the RAM a technical question about 20 cent pieces.
After the BS reply I received, I never bothered to contact them again.
I do not see how the current RAM would be in any position to "authenticate" a 1930 penny.
With whom and with what?
Do they actually have any staff with experience with pre-decimal coins and the die types, or the lab equipment and staff to carry out the necessary testing for metal content etc?
I doubt it.
Fred.
Quote from: 'Goldseeker' pid='123219' dateline='1599371105'Thanks for your comments.
Between the two coins, the total cost was $40,000.00.
One has been certified by the RAM and the other although checked out by the RAM they wouldn't authenticate in writing due to "public liability".
Both purchased from Belinda Downie over eight years.
Yeah,well done Goldie,great Investment.
I still think there are plenty(hundred/hundreds?) out there but you would think they will slowly gravitate to PCGS in the years ahead.
I was the last person, according to the RAM Staff, to ask for a coin(s) to be authenticated.
I had actually deliberately travelled from Melbourne to Canberra at collect my second 1930 Penny that I took up to Canberra several weeks earlier.
In between the intervening years of the first and second coin going to Canberra, the people who authenticated coins had departed the RAM and the new CEO then banned the RAM from certifying coins due to Public Liability possibilities.
The first parcel of coins I got certified were a 1930 Penny, 1921/22 Overdate Threepence and a 1923 Halfpenny, all certified with letters of authenticity.
Several years later, the same thing but the RAM Staff then advised that the CEO would not allow the RAM to certify the coins in letter form but they did advise me that all three coins did meet all the requirements but alas no letter to certify the coins were genuine.
All up, it was an expensive experience and the only way to get coins certified now id to go out into the public arena and get someone who knows what they are doing to get the job done.
Yeah Goldie, as well as having a grasp of the die variations possible and unique to a particular type the organisation needs to be familiar and able to verify the metal used. That means a shed full of hi - tech gear.
Also need to be up to date with the latest copy coins from China!
All you can get from a collector like me is an opinion of a self appointed expert!
That you cannot take to the bank!
The Mint gave me the secrecy act and liability song, useless.
On the other hand my last request to the London Mint was met with a initial response "we will look into it", and then a full reply from an interested staffer with detail, no BS.
They have people that know what they are doing.
Fred.
PCGS identifies and grades coins, charges for it and, presumably, makes a profit.
Would be a nice little earner for the mint, only need a couple of enthusiasts, and a would be good reputation enhancer.
Almost as good an idea as Donation Dollars. [Sarcasm]
Talking of rare 1930 pennies check out the rarest one of all on ebay for just $4,500!
It seems the boys at the mint were experimenting with dies back in 1930 or maybe 1950 and either accidently punched a 3 onto a die or maybe was experimenting with the new kangaroo design in 1930 and minted a few as samples to be handed out to schoolkids at the mint door! Possibly only one ever got out of the mint and so could be the new "Uniquorn" 1930!!!!!!(much sarcasm).
Ok, sorry about that, some nutcase called 44ya-61 has shined up a bunch of copper coins and chiseled up a 1930 for sale.
Dear me, i thought all the dimbulbs had deserted ebay, good to see one back. (more sarcasm)
44ya-61 is at it again.
On Ebay now has an ENGLISH obverse 1930 on sale for just $6000!
Got to get one of those.
Photos appear to be of two different coins.
Good to see a scammer back in buisness.
Fred.
Quote from: 'fred lever' pid='123345' dateline='1600117614'44ya-61 is at it again.
On Ebay now has an ENGLISH obverse 1930 on sale for just $6000!
Got to get one of those.
Photos appear to be of two different coins.
Good to see a scammer back in business.
Fred.
Extreme buyer beware as all ways with Ebay,still its better now than when it first started in Oz.,back then,1999,it attracted every 2 bit scam artist and conman in Aust. thinking they could 'earn' easy money.
The guy that was selling non-existent laptops back then had something like 60 different ID's and Bank Accts/Licenses.,Police didn't find him,a guy that he ripped off was a IT buff and he tracked him down and gave the Police his name and various addresses.
Also back then,early 2000's,you had to pay for Registered Post,only $2.20,whether you were selling or buying as Coins often did not turn up.
As i said,Ebay is a lot better now you just have to be careful.
There are two dodgy 1930 coins on offer, that fuzzy one (that looks like a genuine image) and a crap one in a 2 x 2 holder.
I have emailed both sellers and requested they post up better photos so I can see detail.
I wont hold my breath.
Fred.
If a seller posts an out of focus photo for a supposedly valuable coin that indicates he has something to hide. Or isn't bothered to present it well to get the best, possible price.
Either way bidding on it is a gamble.
So maybe multiple dies were used to strike the very small number of 1930 London die pennies.
Hi MrT, one thing to think about is: we do not know how many of a die pair coins were actually struck.
What we know about is how many of a die pair survive.
The fact that only 3 English obverse 1930 coins survived could be because that die pair run was very short.
That could be because of a mechanical failure of a die or a machine.
All of that is guesswork, the only clue we have is the interpretation of the press books by Mullett and his knowledge in talking to the guys in production who were actually there at the time.
Truly all the press room guys were trying to do at the time was:
1/ to make the uncirculated "samples" required by the system for each date year to send back to London and for posterity collections
2/ meet the production figures required for the government orders for pennies
3/ try to make dies that would last a decent amount of shifts and then hold that recipe for the future.
They got their ducks in row by 1931 and did not have much trouble after 1932.
When you read and analyse about how many dies were manufactured but failed during manufacture or on test through 1929/30/31 it is not surprising small numbers of "odd" die pairings survived. At the time know one was concerned what the parentage of a hub or die was, that only came in by collectors after 1960's trying to sort out the story. The press room would only know a die by its derivate hub or tool source name (like from the 1922 london MD tool) and then give that die a serial number like #78 so they could keep a track of how long it lasted so they would then know the recipe
( material and heat treatment ect) was good or bad. They knew nothing about "English" or "Indian" or "Birmingham" or cared a toss for the number of rim beads.
My guess is the 1930 English obverse coins came from one die pair. You would have to line all 3 coins up side by side in the hand and look for any common die marks that may be left. Not going to happen.
Fred.
From the two images I could find there didn't seem to be any common die markers.
Re #45. "From the two images I could find there didn't seem to be any common die markers."
Agree, you would like a big crack or dot showing but there is nothing to be seen apart from the fact they are English obverses.
Fred.
Found this interesting while doing some follow up reading. These are a couple of extracts from mint reports from the Melbourne Mint. The years are 1930 and 1931, not sure if this has been shared before.
(https://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/12047/512/page_85a_-_Copy.jpg)
Also this bit from 1930 as well, the amount of visitors having a visit and the specimens struck.
(https://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/12047/512/page_90b1.jpg)
Thanks Gnome,interesting,my biggest concern/surprise was back in the 1960's when researchers stated the Melb. Mint did not have counters on their machines,mintage was estimated by weight of minted Coins.
Hi Gnome,
For our viewers that may have just come in and not aware of the immense amount of material and research done on the year 1930 at the Mint (Holland, Saxton, Mullett, Sharples all the way to Briggs, Effendi and many many others).
Iinteresting reading illustrating the danger when official figures are taken in isolation and can be interpreted many ways.
You can see how myths arise about the 1930 penny!
That reports indicates that 600,000 pennies were produced in 1930.
Assumption: is that they were dated 1930 so 600,000 1930 pennies must have been made not a couple of thousand like those experts say.
Groan.
And 428 visitors were admitted to view the Operative departments, therefore at least 428, 1930 pennies were handed out to visitors!
Groannnn.
Assumptions: pennies were handed out, "visitors" were tourists gawking at machines.
And that is why researchers from Bill Mullett of the Mint and Sharples of the Museum started examining actual press books and other documents to figure out what actually happened in the workshops and figuring out what dies and what dates were actually made!
A very complex and exhausting area of research i have had the opportunity to be involved in and report on.
Fred.
Yeah hope you feel better after all those groans. I was only sharing because I still have unanswered questions like the part about 43,000 (L) in Bronze coin being exported to the United Kingdom in 1930 when there was 600,000 pennies supposedly struck ( as per the Melbourne mint report) or the info about the bronze coins sent to New Zealand also in 1930 ( as per the mint report from London). Still a work in progress for me and I won't be bothering anyone else with this stuff.
Thanks Basil I found it interesting myself.
Quote from: 'gnome61' pid='128951' dateline='1704053991'Found this interesting while doing some follow up reading. These are a couple of extracts from mint reports from the Melbourne Mint. The years are 1930 and 1931, not sure if this has been shared before. Looks to me as the extract regarding the one that says (The issues of coin from this branch compare with those of 1929 is wrong. As the mint did make 0.63M half pennies in 1930. Could be the 600.000 was meant for the halfpenny..
(https://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/12047/512/page_85a_-_Copy.jpg)
43,000 (pounds?) in bronze coins exported to the UK may refer to British bronze coins being repatriated as the paragraph above refers to British silver coins.
Hi gnome; the 43,000/- of bronze exported to Britain is obviously English pennies as from the mid 1920s they were being withdrawn from circulation. The previous sentence mentions that the English silver had already mostly been withdrawn so the inference is that they were not concerned for many years about withdrawing the bronze due to the shortage of pennies into the early 1920s but now with the depression there was lots of surplus bronze and that sent back to England is over half a million pennies/halfpennies.
I wonder why they made so many dies and if they were all dated 1930.
And if Australia had a surplus of bronze coins what did London do with crates/drums filled with tons of dirty old coins arriving to add to their own depression surplus?
Hi Gnome, yeah I am still groaning!
For the viewers just tuning in:
The assumption here in reading the review report by itself, is the figure of 600,000 meant STRUCK that year.
NO, it means they transferred 600,000 pennies out of STOCK .
They had a store chokko with 1929 and other dated pennies.
Hence no orders in 1930 for pennies from production.
Mullet, in "Particular coins" gives a very detailed breakdown of coins struck and dies used in the late 20's and early 30's.
Study that and you get a much better idea of what was where in 1930.
The Mint report just gives a yearly roundup of gross figures.
Cheers, Fred.
There's one currently up for auction: https://www.smallsauctions.com/auction-lot/australia-1930-penny-english-obverse-pcgs-xf45_1bd466e866?catalogRedirectURL=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.smallsauctions.com%2Fauction-catalog%2FBest-of-the-Best-Australian-Pre-decimal-Coins_7YIA6WIRJI