Just purchased a nice 34/33 threepence (ebay item 262541168670), it is slightly bent (as the seller was upfront about) and I'm thinking of unbending it . The bend is a gentle curve and if I can level it then it won't show.
The only recommendation that I can see online is to put it between 2 sheets of hard rubber and putting it in a vice (that advice was in an American forum and was for dimes, which are about the same size/composition). Anyone have experience in this (or other) methods? I don't want to ruin the coin and I want to end up with a problem free threepence.
Are you sure its bent ?
Cant see the bend or any damage in the sellers pics.
These can often have slightly convex reverses.
I have no idea how you would go about doing this but I do suggest that you try whatever method you come up with on another scrap bin Stirling 3d first to make sure that it works :ok:
I've never had much success with bent Coins,even those slightly out of whack,probably best to just leave it IMO.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1934-3-Rare-A-UNC-Overdate-Australian-Threepence-/262541168670?hash=item3d20ac501e%3Ag%3A5mwAAOSwQupXWUkM&nma=true&si=J6HucXYMJ6LISpfwdcOADNrATEI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
i have a beautiful 1950 penny wit a slight buckle
if it works - then can I send my penny down for a vice job?
but you have to send to send it back please
Before and after pikkies would be good :)
The 3d is a skinny little coin and Stirling Silver is relatively soft, So if the bending is only slight I imagine the chances of success doing this would be pretty good.
Keep us posted Mate :ok:
Quote from: 'Basil' pid='94573' dateline='1471174720'I've never had much success with bent Coins,even those slightly out of whack,probably best to just leave it IMO.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1934-3-Rare-A-UNC-Overdate-Australian-Threepence-/262541168670?hash=item3d20ac501e%3Ag%3A5mwAAOSwQupXWUkM&nma=true&si=J6HucXYMJ6LISpfwdcOADNrATEI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
humm
if you can't dazzle them with brilliance
baffle them with bull
Quote from: 'echidna' pid='94569' dateline='1471169733'Are you sure its bent ?
Cant see the bend or any damage in the sellers pics.
These can often have slightly convex reverses.
It is a gentle bend. When I put it on a flat surface I can rock it slightly. I agree with Trout and might try it on some common date 3d with a similar level of bentness. Just was hoping others have had a similar experience and could give some do's and dont's tips to shortcut the experimentation.
Just a thought. Maybe ask a Sliversmith if he could do it without damaging the coin. :angel:
Quote from: 'nealeffendi' pid='94603' dateline='1471199537'It is a gentle bend. When I put it on a flat surface I can rock it slightly. I agree with Trout and might try it on some common date 3d with a similar level of bentness. Just was hoping others have had a similar experience and could give some do's and dont's tips to shortcut the experimentation.
A few years back a guy on one of the Stamp Forums was advised to heat the coin(6d IIRC) in boiling water then into a vice between two pieces of wood,end result was a crease across the coin where the metal stretched(?) and one ruined Coin.
I've had several goes over the years and nothing worked,i started when i was was 10 or 12 years old with Pennies that my older Brothers and their friends put in the Tram tracks,its like the yips in Golf,once its bent that's it to my way of thinking.
I agree with Basil, once the metal is bent it's deformed and probably won't go back exactly the way it was. If I was going to mess with it I would use a press not a vyce. One possible approach might be to make a spacer the same size as the rim and press down on only that part of the coin.
A bend implies that there is a crease across the coin and to "uncrease" it you would apply an opposite force to that which created it. However too much force will bend it back the other way and not enough will leave it as is.
Quote from: 'r9453' pid='94638' dateline='1471238593'I agree with Basil, once the metal is bent it's deformed and probably won't go back exactly the way it was. If I was going to mess with it I would use a press not a vyce. One possible approach might be to make a spacer the same size as the rim and press down on only that part of the coin.
A bend implies that there is a crease across the coin and to "uncrease" it you would apply an opposite force to that which created it. However too much force will bend it back the other way and not enough will leave it as is.
There is no crease but a gentle curve, had there been a crease I wouldn't even consider trying to level it
Unbending will never shrink the stretching that the initial bend causes. You might make the coin look a little better but it will forever be imperfect.
Panel beaters shrink body panels by heating, hammering, quenching (not necessarily in that order) to get rid of minor dents. But that technique will destroy a coin. Panel beaters also use filler to finish off as the shrinking never gets the panel back to an "as new" surface.
humm
i do recall using a cut up flattened coke can
some bodywork putty, can ó spray paint
and artistic license on the old falcon
Queensland cars - gotta love ém
the hubby's dad taught me how to do it
passes the tap test when the coppers pull you over for NOT running that stop sign with a rolling stop
Quote from: 'nealeffendi' pid='94645' dateline='1471244709'There is no crease but a gentle curve, had there been a crease I wouldn't even consider trying to level it
The crease comes after you apply pressure to straighten the Coin,i forget which side the crease forms on but i guess it varies depending on the curve and the amount of metal that has to reform and the pressure used.
Quote from: 'Basil' pid='94747' dateline='1471346931'Quote from: 'nealeffendi' pid='94645' dateline='1471244709'There is no crease but a gentle curve, had there been a crease I wouldn't even consider trying to level it
The crease comes after you apply pressure to straighten the Coin,i forget which side the crease forms on but i guess it varies depending on the curve and the amount of metal that has to reform and the pressure used.
I'll try it on a couple of bullion grade threepences to see if it is go or no-go to attempt to level. The curve is under 1mm.
maybe pop them in the oven first - just just after you've made a great pizza
warm metal moves better
then cool them in hot water
i used to watch the copper being smelted when I was a kid
piping hot metal
then poured into molds
then I think they were cooled in some sort of water
something like that
Quote from: 'robbiegal' pid='94751' dateline='1471351497'maybe pop them in the oven first
I don't think I've be keen to do that with silver. Sure, it won't melt, but still...
Maybe it would be better if you could return the coin and wait until a decent problem free coin becomes available :angel:
Quote from: 'trout' pid='94783' dateline='1471395779'Maybe it would be better if you could return the coin and wait until a decent problem free coin becomes available :angel:
No, I knew it had a slight bend and I bid accordingly. Even if I don't attempt to unbend it it is still a nice coin for my "nice but not slab-able" Purple Penny folder.
I wonder if you put it in between a couple of bits of cloth Neal and run a rolling pin over it, maybe a vice might be better though.
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='94808' dateline='1471413917'I wonder if you put it in between a couple of bits of cloth Neal and run a rolling pin over it, maybe a vice might be better though.
I'm going to try a few different methods on a few bullion grade threepences. I think the first method I'll try is to sandwich a coin between 2 sheets of plastic and then put in a vice with multiple steps of tightening then loosening (to inspect for both good things like straightening and bad things like creasing, rim damage etc) and each time tighten just a bit more.
And some pine offcuts either side to protect from the jaws?
Yes you have to watch for marks from the jaws, even putting a bit of light weight sheet to cover them. Good luck with it Neal and please keep us informed on how it all goes :good:
Quote from: 'JeffH' pid='94831' dateline='1471423253'And some pine offcuts either side to protect from the jaws?
Something like that but perhaps hardwood so the coin doesn't just get buried in the wood. The plastic I'm thinking of either side of the coin is an ice cream container lid, thick enough to absorb the coins rims and details but not so thick that it prevents the force from the vice getting to the coin. So 2 thin bits of hardwood, 2 bits of plastic and 1 threepence in the sandwich (plus a vice to provide the force).
Here ya go Neal, we used these sort at school and at tafe and they're cheap and easy, we used sheet tin. Hope it helps :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSaAqlbO82U
Yeah, they're simple and work great. Believe it or not I've had the same pair of brass angle plate protectors since I was an apprentice, and still in use on my bench in the back shed today.
Getting back to straightening bent planchets, the problem with straightening a disc that exhibits a raised outer rim is that you can't apply equal or even pressure to all surfaces at the same time without a stepped tool that allows this to happen. So the logical solution is to turn up two stepped blank dies in a lathe and use these to apply pressure to both sides of the planchet at the same time with the use of a press or vice.
Not everyone has access to the equipment necessary, so what if two short lengths of soft rod made from aluminium, each being a tad smaller in diameter than the inside rim, was used in conjunction with a vice to provide the same effect on the central planchet area. A thin disc of plastic cut to the same diameter and glued to each rod end (I'm thinking .020" styrene, available at any good hobby shop) would provide added protection to the surfaces.
Following on from this, it would be a pretty simple process to then apply pressure to the outer rim in a similar manner. Maybe then repeat the process a few times till satisfied. :)
When in doubt......just do it :yahoo:
Quote from: 'autocoupler' pid='94848' dateline='1471440510'Getting back to straightening bent planchets, the problem with straightening a disc that exhibits a raised outer rim is that you can't apply equal or even pressure to all surfaces at the same time without a stepped tool that allows this to happen.
Exactly,but even if you manage to do it small silver coins crease when force is applied to flatten it,or at least that's what i found.
As a kid i used dowling and then broom handles to flatten pennies(Tram tracks) enough to get them wedged between wood in a vice to complete the job.They were stuffed but capable of being spent in some cases.:grin:
I think all the suggestions will result in a damaged coin. Best to leave it as is, so then, no regrets.
Yes probably best to leave well enough alone.
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='94899' dateline='1471488522'Yes probably best to leave well enough alone.
Nah, bugger that. Just use one of these
Telecom Micro-Adjusters (Telstra just doesn't have the same ring to it, sorry) as used by phone techs since Bell invented the damned things.
"If belting it didn't do the job, you need a bigger hammer!" :angel:
(http://www.hammermuseum.org/images/big_hammer.jpg)
Don't laugh -a popular, early colour TV chassis was the Philips "K9"; used in many Australian built brands. It was susceptible to mechanical faults in the delay line which could sometimes be cured (usually only temporarily) by giving it a tsp. Most likely the fault was a dry solder joint. Replacing the delay line was an expensive exercise.
I had just finished fixing a TV antenna system one day when the customer mentioned the TV in his bedroom would not show colour. Sure enough a K9 based set. I told him the only way to cure it, apart from buying a new set, was to give it a bash. I thumped it hard with the heel of my hand and, lo and behold, it came good! Continued to work perfectly until it was replaced recently by a new flat screen set.
I don't know who was more surprised -me or the customer.
I had a Kriesler set that needed a smack about once a week.
I left the obvious pun to uni.
Quote from: 'JeffH' pid='94902' dateline='1471493631'I had a Kriesler set that needed a smack about once a week.
Sounds like out Nordmende TV, which I've still got holding up some dust someplace. :angel:
Quote from: 'autocoupler' pid='94848' dateline='1471440510'Yeah, they're simple and work great. Believe it or not I've had the same pair of brass angle plate protectors since I was an apprentice, and still in use on my bench in the back shed today.
Getting back to straightening bent planchets, the problem with straightening a disc that exhibits a raised outer rim is that you can't apply equal or even pressure to all surfaces at the same time without a stepped tool that allows this to happen. So the logical solution is to turn up two stepped blank dies in a lathe and use these to apply pressure to both sides of the planchet at the same time with the use of a press or vice.
Not everyone has access to the equipment necessary, so what if two short lengths of soft rod made from aluminium, each being a tad smaller in diameter than the inside rim, was used in conjunction with a vice to provide the same effect on the central planchet area. A thin disc of plastic cut to the same diameter and glued to each rod end (I'm thinking .020" styrene, available at any good hobby shop) would provide added protection to the surfaces.
Following on from this, it would be a pretty simple process to then apply pressure to the outer rim in a similar manner. Maybe then repeat the process a few times till satisfied. :)
When in doubt......just do it :yahoo:
This sounds the best idea yet.
And as for banging on the TV, that brings back memories of the time when TVs (black and white) were known as TVs and colour TVs were something that looked all weird and unnatural in the shop windows.
Quote from: 'JeffH' pid='94902' dateline='1471493631'I had a Kriesler set that needed a smack about once a week.
I got me a Kriesler, it's screen's about 20
So hurry up and thump that cabinet honey
The lounge room is a little old place where we can get together
Pictures back, baby (TV's on, baby)
Pictures back, baby, Pictures back
Bang bang bang on the side baby
Knock it a little harder Jeffrey
Bang bang bang on the top baby
I can't see you
Bang bang bang on the back baby
Knock a little harder sugar
And the obvious pun?
K9 chassis
What a dog of a set!
P.S. Is there a tune for those inspired words? And the screen was 26.
Did it leave hair in the house?
Music ..... of course there's music :laugh2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SOryJvTAGs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SOryJvTAGs)
Similar thread on CCF, re a 1855 Canadian 5c.
Probably won't hurt to watch it & see if any useful remedies are posted.
http://www.coincommunity.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=267504
vice guards and cloth then.
Am I the only one here who considers this "doctoring" of a coin to hide the fact it has been damaged beyond numismatic value?
Perhaps next we can discuss artificially toning a coin to hide cleaning marks, using putty to plug holed coins and re-tooling details onto a coin to go from 4 to 8 pearls ,all doctoring techniques I have encountered in my time collecting, some which have burnt me
Depends on how badly bent a coin is IMHO. Obviously anything that is bent acutely would be impossible to do anyway, but I see nothing wrong with removing a slight curvature that has not left any visible sign of creasing of damage.
Just an after thought; if the coin did display a visible crease for example, it would be there for all to see anyway.
Quote from: 'autocoupler' pid='95033' dateline='1471597202'Depends on how badly bent a coin is IMHO. Obviously anything that is bent acutely would be impossible to do anyway, but I see nothing wrong with removing a slight curvature that has not left any visible sign of creasing of damage.
Because it is impossible to return the coin to its original shape once deformed no matter how minor. All you can do is his the damage from plain sight. Metal bent is metal stretched and you cannot unstretch metal
Quote from: 'serial' pid='95035' dateline='1471597524'Metal bent is metal stretched and you cannot unstretch metal
Meh, give it a few more years and you'll just be able to scan it and use laser ablation to make a new one devoid of defects. ;)
And while yes, I'm joking, there is a serious side to this too. What happens when technology allows something to be manufactured which is not just undetectable to the naked eye, but undetectable, period?
"How many 1930 pennies would you like, and do you want some 2000 mules to go with that order?"
Quote from: 'Fulvio' pid='95043' dateline='1471600236'"How many 1930 pennies would you like, and do you want some 2000 mules to go with that order?"
Maybe this is where the TPG's and recorded provenance can hold off the onslaught, then say for example in the year 2525 we draw a line in the sand, and everything after that is considered fake :dodgy::angel:
Quote from: 'serial' pid='95028' dateline='1471596134'Am I the only one here who considers this "doctoring" of a coin to hide the fact it has been damaged beyond numismatic value?
Perhaps next we can discuss artificially toning a coin to hide cleaning marks, using putty to plug holed coins and re-tooling details onto a coin to go from 4 to 8 pearls ,all doctoring techniques I have encountered in my time collecting, some which have burnt me
not really,
it's a form of restoration regarding an example if you are just keeping the coin
the coin obviously has value even with the bend , as the poster bought the thing on the internet
an experienced numismatist would spot any alterations ?
if in the hand - not some fussy ebay photo mind you
luckily I don't really collect silver
if someone tried to unbend a penny I reckon it wold-be very obvious
Quote from: 'serial' pid='95035' dateline='1471597524'Quote from: 'autocoupler' pid='95033' dateline='1471597202'Depends on how badly bent a coin is IMHO. Obviously anything that is bent acutely would be impossible to do anyway, but I see nothing wrong with removing a slight curvature that has not left any visible sign of creasing of damage.
Because it is impossible to return the coin to its original shape once deformed no matter how minor. All you can do is his the damage from plain sight. Metal bent is metal stretched and you cannot unstretch metal
But is bent metal truly stretched if it is curved without an angled point in it? Think of those bimetallic strips where temperature changes cause the strip to bend (different metals expand by different amounts so the strip bends), when the temperature returns to normal the strip straightens and is unchanged from how it started.
Quote from: 'autocoupler' pid='95044' dateline='1471601098'Quote from: 'Fulvio' pid='95043' dateline='1471600236'"How many 1930 pennies would you like, and do you want some 2000 mules to go with that order?"
Maybe this is where the TPG's and recorded provenance can hold off the onslaught, then say for example in the year 2525 we draw a line in the sand, and everything after that is considered fake :dodgy::angel:
So in another 10-15 years when the technology allows them to make 100% perfect copies of the coins what is to stop them making 100% perfect copies of the slabs? What will they do when there are 2000 slabs all with the same PCGS number and the same coin in each and every nuance of the slab is the same (including scratched slabs and other defects). Now try and pick the real one from the 1999 fakes.
Quote from: 'nealeffendi' pid='95084' dateline='1471624057'So in another 10-15 years when the technology allows them to make 100% perfect copies of the coins what is to stop them making 100% perfect copies of the slabs? What will they do when there are 2000 slabs all with the same PCGS number and the same coin in each and every nuance of the slab is the same (including scratched slabs and other defects). Now try and pick the real one from the 1999 fakes.
This is where recorded provenance steps in. All slab registration numbers attributed to nealeffendi will be recorded in an account similar to where you park your spending money today. When any item changes hands, it's unique I.D. number will need to be released by the registered owner and transferred to the buyer (I think something similar is already in place with the TPG system) in the same way we move our money around today, and any transaction outside these boundaries will be a fail just as what happens now when some dodger tries to access a secure account. No doubt the success of any regime like this will be ensured by banning all new registrations and exchanges in the year 2525. All those holding duplicates may as well then go play SAS (skip a slab) on the water. :)
Love this song and I can't resist any more and know you've been hangin for it auto so just for your pleasure mate :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdSqLfuRN18
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='95118' dateline='1471651546'Love this song and I can't resist any more and know you've been hangin for it auto so just for your pleasure mate :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdSqLfuRN18
:laugh2: funny thing is AJ I'm just back from the TUBE with this, yes it's a great song :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izQB2-Kmiic&list=RDizQB2-Kmiic#t=45
Just to keep things on topic, did I see correctly, was that a bent dime on the stage? :biggrin:
Quote from: 'autocoupler' pid='95111' dateline='1471650461'Quote from: 'nealeffendi' pid='95084' dateline='1471624057'So in another 10-15 years when the technology allows them to make 100% perfect copies of the coins what is to stop them making 100% perfect copies of the slabs? What will they do when there are 2000 slabs all with the same PCGS number and the same coin in each and every nuance of the slab is the same (including scratched slabs and other defects). Now try and pick the real one from the 1999 fakes.
This is where recorded provenance steps in. All slab registration numbers attributed to nealeffendi will be recorded in an account similar to where you park your spending money today. When any item changes hands, it's unique I.D. number will need to be released by the registered owner and transferred to the buyer (I think something similar is already in place with the TPG system) in the same way we move our money around today, and any transaction outside these boundaries will be a fail just as what happens now when some dodger tries to access a secure account. No doubt the success of any regime like this will be ensured by banning all new registrations and exchanges in the year 2525. All those holding duplicates may as well then go play SAS (skip a slab) on the water. :)
To mix coin forum topics ... I hope they don't rely on the mob who ran the census to store the provenance records. Or the twits who ran the DNC emails, or Cankles Clinton with her "lost" emails or the hacked Medicare records or the stolen credit card numbers or the hacked Bitcoin accounts or the....you get the drift of what can happen when there are millions of hackers out there who are not as all white hat as Wikileaks.
:laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: anything is possible mate :)
:scratch_one-s_head: not 100% sure but I think you might be right but you have to look really closely :blush2:
(http://i68.tinypic.com/imhusk.png)
Quote from: 'nealeffendi' pid='95124' dateline='1471652373'you get the drift of what can happen when there are millions of hackers out there who are not as all white hat as Wikileaks.
Which is where blockchains come in. They don't rely on ANYONE for their authority. Much as I know you guys all hate cryptocurrencies, you REALLY should climb aboard, if only to learn what makes them tick and get some practical experience.
For example, I ran a test last month to show how Dogecoin wallets could be used for micropayments/donations for pictures.
http://fulvio55.altervista.org/pic/DHi9FAAzZpFzzxfwszk8R2hs3B3QueYTMR/ is the test page I wrapped around a pic I took of a friend's crippled and now recently deceased dog. Note that both the picture name and the location are a Dogecoin wallet address. The page also contains a QR code (though this could be embedded in the image itself) and a link to the wallet address on the blockchain:
https://bitinfocharts.com/dogecoin/address/DHi9FAAzZpFzzxfwszk8R2hs3B3QueYTMR
This in turn shows two blocks where payments were received. The blocks show the transaction ID's for those payments, like this: https://bitinfocharts.com/dogecoin/tx/f4a73db301630af7408b07578660155f8619f4118b2b3eca4d48a9c11d6eeed6
Those transactions are permanent and immutable. They do not require a central authority to create, hold, authenticate or otherwise have anything to do with them. They are numbers, after all, which self-evidently exist.
You can put literally ANY data into a blockchain. And once written, it becomes a permanent part of the public record. Ideal for proving provenance. :)
Quote from: 'nealeffendi' pid='95124' dateline='1471652373'To mix coin forum topics ... I hope they don't rely on the mob who ran the census to store the provenance records. Or the twits who ran the DNC emails, or Cankles Clinton with her "lost" emails or the hacked Medicare records or the stolen credit card numbers or the hacked Bitcoin accounts or the....you get the drift of what can happen when there are millions of hackers out there who are not as all white hat as Wikileaks.
True, there are dodgers everywhere, but so far at least they have failed to compromise the banks, or should I say I don't know anyone personally who has had their account trashed when they haven't acted irresponsibly themselves. Another thing on the plus side for the banks, they still accept bent coins......just staying on topic :angel:
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='95127' dateline='1471652662':laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: anything is possible mate :)
:scratch_one-s_head: not 100% sure but I think you might be right but you have to look really closely :blush2:
(http://i68.tinypic.com/imhusk.png)
:laugh2: I knew you could find it AJ :)
Here to help mate :friends:
I don't have any sort of cards and mainly because of my crappy memory so I go into the banks and actually sign for my money :)
I have heard of fake slabs but never seen any pic's or seen one in hand yet but I'm sure someone would have tried by now as they make fakes of just about everything else :dash1:
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='95140' dateline='1471655752'I have heard of fake slabs
A slab is a slab. There's nothing fake about them.
However, what you put IN it, that's another matter entirely. A dodgy coin with a fake label and hologram... mmm... what are the chances you wouldn't get caught? Much easier to sell the coin raw and untraceable, no?
Yes, true but never underestimate what the criminals will try if they think they can get away with something.
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='95149' dateline='1471656496'Yes, true but never underestimate what the criminals will try if they think they can get away with something.
Yes, but holograms are a little harder to fake than most things.
True but I used to be into trading cards and they have a little hologram square about 4mm x 4mm and they have tried faking them and some got it right and they've faked our notes and especially the $50 with all it's security stuff and some of the crims are getting pretty cluey.
Quote from: 'Fulvio' pid='95147' dateline='1471656361'Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='95140' dateline='1471655752'I have heard of fake slabs
A slab is a slab. There's nothing fake about them.
However, what you put IN it, that's another matter entirely. A dodgy coin with a fake label and hologram... mmm... what are the chances you wouldn't get caught? Much easier to sell the coin raw and untraceable, no?
There are fake slabs and I've seen more than a few online. Most come from China and either contain a fake coin or a real coin that is a lower grade than on the slab or a coin that has been doctored and would have been rejected for legit slabbing. If the serial numbers match and the slab copied is of an older slab (no photo to compare to) then how will it be found out?. Now it is probably hard for them to do it to our coins as the numbers slabbed isn't there but for say a Morgan Dollar there can be 10,000 plus coins slabbed with the same date and if the fakers put a $50 B/Unc that might have made MS64 in a fake MS66 slab they will make a nice profit.
Nobles auction has even had David gee's forgeries for sale
the Royal Australian Mint even has a display of his dies and coins (and that was before he died)
now that is pretty damned spectacular for forgeries
the Twible and Mander forgeries often sell for more than the real coin
so the moral of the story is - if you are going to make forgeries do a good job and it will pay well
Very interesting, thanks Neal and RG :good:
http://www.pcgs.com/secure
Quote from: 'robbiegal' pid='95182' dateline='1471676808'Nobles auction has even had David gee's forgeries for sale
the Royal Australian Mint even has a display of his dies and coins (and that was before he died)
now that is pretty damned spectacular for forgeries
the Twible and Mander forgeries often sell for more than the real coin
so the moral of the story is - if you are going to make forgeries do a good job and it will pay well
Gee (no pun intended) that makes me have a rethink about selling my contemporary forgery 1930 penny altered date again. It's doing me no good sitting in it's box.
just pluck out a known forgers name and Bob's ya uncle
every shilling forgery known to man is attributed to Twibles and Manders !!!
Yes, I don't think I'd be giving it any provenance, apart from ..... "t'wasn't me ...... it was Dolly".
Quote from: 'nealeffendi' pid='95180' dateline='1471676719'There are fake slabs and I've seen more than a few online. Most come from China and either contain a fake coin or a real coin that is a lower grade
Time to differentiate between a SLAB and a SLABBED COIN I think.
One is a piece of plastic, readily available to anyone, including the TPGs. The other is an attempt to scam the unsuspecting.
You could put anything in a slab, and that would be perfectly OK... unless you tried to pass it off as something its not.
It may seem like I'm splitting hairs, but the point is, as has often been said, "buy the coin, not the slab". Though we all know that many fail to do that. :(