Let's see some of your rare or scarce error coins and we'll see what people think they're worth. This is not an auction for the coins shown here and if it starts going crazy, I will probably delete the thread as a bad idea.
I've invited AJ to start with his 2009 $1 roo with handcuffs, so please wait a week before posting any others.
:scratch_one-s_head: Gee, I did post it somewhere here just where is the question so leave it with me I might have to find it and take another pic sorry.
Here's a link AJ ...
http://www.australian-coins.net/showthread.php?tid=389&pid=33162&highlight=handcuff#pid33162 (http://www.australian-coins.net/showthread.php?tid=389&pid=33162&highlight=handcuff#pid33162)
Thanks Uni :good: so here's a pic :)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2vdr9js.jpg)
See I reckon if I put this on feebay I'd either only get a couple of bucks or it wouldn't sell as no one has seen one before so probably thing it's dodgy :(
I can't remember ever seeing this one before AJ. Hard to say what it's worth, a few years ago I would probably have gone up to around $10 for it, but I'm cutting back on most stuff now as there are just too many error coins being made.
But I do think that so far, this is a one off. :good:
Thanks Nancy :good: Uni found where I'd posted about it ages ago but it's easy to miss one or two of my posts being the shy timid reserved little thing I am :blush2:
1/11/13 was when I posted about it :)
It's gotta be worth (http://i61.tinypic.com/2drb5lz.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2ivy4ww.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2w6i8o2.jpg)
:laugh2: ..... Just gotta love Dr Evil
I printed an A4 of that cuffed roo and took it to the meeting tonight, along with the buggered wavy 2, the much-cracked '81 platypus and the sex token in my huge birthday prezzie gift box that arrived today. Fortuitous, since the theme was tokens.
Everyone wanted to know what year it was (I forgot to look, so didn't know), and much conjecture over what caused it. The smart money says a dropped tool onto the face of the die, since it looks nothing like a cud.
I also walked away with a 1999 50¢ one of the guys was going to spend. It has four surface cuds at the bottom of the reverse, a big one extending from the S halfway to the rim, two where the leaf meets the bottom of the 0, one inside and one outside the 0, and one where the leaf meets the 5. Presumably die damage from a previous strikethrough.
So a good night, other than the flat car battery that made me half an hour late. ;)
Quote from: 'Unicorn' pid='77700' dateline='1439462581':laugh2: ..... Just gotta love Dr Evil
Yep that's for sure, so do you like my new avatar :angel:
Gee the big birthday is getting close now Fulvio and it's 2009 mate :good:
And just for you Uni :mocking:
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2nlwxvt.jpg)
Quote from: 'Fulvio' pid='77708' dateline='1439470237'I printed an A4 of that cuffed roo and took it to the meeting tonight
So, any comments about the coin, or what you think it's worth?
I'd value it at $5-$10. However being the discovery coin it might get more than that on eBay if two cud collectors got a bee up their butts about it.
I think Mark has it right.
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='77713' dateline='1439495910'Gee the big birthday is getting close now Fulvio
(http://baysidejournal.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/feature61.jpg)
Quote from: 'Nevol' pid='77721' dateline='1439501206'So, any comments about the coin, or what you think it's worth?
As a cud, Mark's got it right I think.
But I don't think its a cud, in the sense that it isn't a die break.
I'd want to see more examples, and if, as I believe, they're all identical, that would make it a variety and therefore worth more.
When I do buy Die fault coins (cuds, cracks or worn dies) I tend to look at the size of the fault. I think bigger is better as the more drastic the fault the more likely it was picked up by the mint sooner so the theory goes there is less of them. Smaller cuds tend to go unnoticed for a long time by the mints and you can often find that they have changed one die as it had a major fault but had not noticed the smaller fault on the opposite die that gets rather annoying to work out sometimes.
Quote from: 'NZCoinerrors' pid='77749' dateline='1439539652'When I do buy Die fault coins (cuds, cracks or worn dies) I tend to look at the size of the fault. I think bigger is better as the more drastic the fault the more likely it was picked up by the mint sooner so the theory goes there is less of them. Smaller cuds tend to go unnoticed for a long time by the mints and you can often find that they have changed one die as it had a major fault but had not noticed the smaller fault on the opposite die that gets rather annoying to work out sometimes.
Interesting theory, but I'm not sure it holds water. Die damage comes in three broad flavours:
- Wear
- Accidental damage
- Structural flaws
Wear is obviously quite common, and the harder they try to work their dies to reduce cost, the lower the overall quality of the products. We've had some shocking years, remember?
Structural flaws will show up on multiple dies. Neck cracks, Rabbit ears, Fat 5's, Stole cuds, etc etc etc. Heck, sometimes it can be hard to find a coin that **ISN'T** an error!
For my money, Accidental damage is where its at. A dropped tool, A 'heavy' strikethrough, Rough cleaning, basically anything that damages a single die, especially towards the end of its life, or while a sharp-eyed and diligent worker is manning the press. This will give the shortest run and make that particular error rare.
Now, as to it being desirable, well, that's a whole 'nother kettle of fish, innit? You can lead a horse to water, you can't force him to bid on it. ;)
I agree and i think we are saying the same thing in different ways. Sometimes harder to find a coin that does not have a fault and I used to record the numbers i found of each type but that got far to time consuming. I also dont like to buy (from ebay or trademe) the smaller faults as these can often be found by noodling. So I prefer to purchase the later progressions of a faulty die if I have not yet found a few. Something that is so bad it is hard it stands out and cant be missed like the one below.
I only just found my second one these after getting the first by trading it for a few old tradesman tokens I did not want ( the other one is in better condition but filed away )
(http://www.coinerrors.co.nz/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/IMG_75078-1_resize.jpg)
wowsa!!
i'm going to NZ in November
wonder if I will get one in change????
Lol good luck I search about 2000 $1 coins a week looking for particular errors for people not to mention checking all the coins i count over the counter at work so when I found this second one I was over the moon. If you do find one let me know if you want to sell it haha
Our new Banknotes will be the big thing in November and I cant wait. Have been having a bit of a clear out of the UNC stuff to get some money to bring the new notes home from work. The Reserve bank does not sell notes to the public but only to the security companies so it can be hard work to find true unc notes so I bribe the security company staff to get the new stuff delivered to my branch haha
you devil you
good luck and I will keep an eye out for a little lumpy kiwi coin in my change
Quote from: 'NZCoinerrors' pid='77761' dateline='1439550403'I agree and i think we are saying the same thing in different ways. Sometimes harder to find a coin that does not have a fault and I used to record the numbers i found of each type but that got far to time consuming. I also dont like to buy (from ebay or trademe) the smaller faults as these can often be found by noodling. So I prefer to purchase the later progressions of a faulty die if I have not yet found a few. Something that is so bad it is hard it stands out and cant be missed like the one below.
That's cool. I wonder how design got on the cud?
Super cool Cud.!:wavemulticolor:
QuoteI wonder how design got on the cud?
Me too. How can it still show some of the design on the cud when it should have been lost with the flake that went AWOL?
Thats a bit of a mystery to me also the other one I have does not have the design on it like this one does. When I purchased the first one I got it was thought to be a one off fault. But always nice to prove that theory wrong. I also cant work out how a cud this large is possible to be honest but here is the other one turns out it is not as good as I thought but at least I did take a photo and dont have to clear out the safe to find it unless I have 3 hmmm. Have a Numismatic Society meeting at my house soon so might have a look after that to check
(http://www.coinerrors.co.nz/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/2010-Large-Cud_resize.jpg)
I think in the first one the piece of die that had broken (to leave the cud) was still partly attached, hence leaving a bit of the design. By the time the second coin came about, it had broken off completely.
That's a super cud. :yahoo: What year is it?
Quote from: 'Unicorn' pid='77803' dateline='1439602945'I think in the first one the piece of die that had broken (to leave the cud) was still partly attached, hence leaving a bit of the design. By the time the second coin came about, it had broken off completely.
Sounds good to me :-)
And the year is 2010
Quote from: 'Unicorn' pid='77803' dateline='1439602945'I think in the first one the piece of die that had broken (to leave the cud) was still partly attached, hence leaving a bit of the design. By the time the second coin came about, it had broken off completely.
Had it broken away as a single piece while remaining attached, the cud would be much smaller, and look completely different.
Keep in mind that most dies nowadays are chrome plated. The only way I could see this happening is for the break to have been in the underlying steel and it falling out the side, but leaving the plating in place. Sort of like the bubbling we see in the early stages of cud formation, but with nothing to contain the broken piece until the plating broke.
I can't see the plating lasting very long unsupported. A handful of strikes before it broke free perhaps. My bet is you won't find many more examples like this, if any.
Quote from: 'Fulvio' pid='77811' dateline='1439610042'I can't see the plating lasting very long unsupported. A handful of strikes before it broke free perhaps. My bet is you won't find many more examples like this, if any.
I agree McDuck (and I want to know how you can still type when it's your birthday), there could be just the one broken strike and then it breaks off. Hence NZC you could have a "one of a kind". :good:
QuoteI can't see the plating lasting very long unsupported. A handful of strikes before it broke free perhaps. My bet is you won't find many more examples like this, if any.
Sounds good to me but just to make sure I will keep looking :-)
Quote from: 'Unicorn' pid='77818' dateline='1439611895'(and I want to know how you can still type when it's your birthday)
What? Is this a Type-Free Day or something???
Nah, usually the only key I end up hitting when it's my birthday is
The new 2015 NZ Currency Set is beautiful
Great value as well
RAM take note
I just bought this one. I know what I paid but what do you lot think it's worth? No cheating if you already know.
(http://www.mycoinalog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/australia-2001-20c-upset-error.jpg)
$35 is what I think
A lovely upset Mark!!!
Just a guess at $25-$30
I'll guess $38.50. Nice pick up. :yahoo:
Bit of a mean bunch on here I'd go to $75'sh :idea:
Are they not a lot scarcer than the $1 rotated ?
It is well circulated but a very large upset -far more than any I have ever found. I will estimate $55.00.
I'm not a fanatic when it comes to errors but I will buy something if I consider it "Interesting" .
This is interesting but in pretty bad condition , I personally would only go as high as $10 for that one Mark.
Quote from: 'Fordprefect' pid='78003' dateline='1440140429'Bit of a mean bunch on here I'd go to $75'sh :idea:
Are they not a lot scarcer than the $1 rotated ?
I think you are closer than the rest - they are too stingy in my humble opinion.
These are not easy to find. (I have not found one yet)
I think they are not even that easy to buy!
Quote from: 'Ozcoins' pid='78027' dateline='1440163464'they are too stingy in my humble opinion.
Nah, they're not stingy... They just expect it to be slabbed MS67 or better! :angel:
When people ask me what I think a coin is worth I tell them how much I would actually pay for it. If the coin was mine I wouldn't sell it for less than $85. But I could only pay $35 hence my valuation. I hate it when people offer values but wouldn't pay that for it themselves
It's not a common well known rotation like the 2001 Federation dollars,possibly unique so it's priceless
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I've seen two of these sell in the last three years. This one, which I paid $105 for (in an auction) and one on eBay that went for just under $200. They certainly are a lot scarcer than the COF $1 upsets.
Wow! So if one in really good condition turned up it'd probably go for quite a bit more. Sorry I was so stingy with my estimate. :angel:
Nice pick-up anyway. :yahoo::wavemulticolor:
Likewise Nevol, I obviously haven't been paying attention to them, I was miles off.
Quote from: 'Nevol' pid='78037' dateline='1440194428'Wow! So if one in really good condition turned up it'd probably go for quite a bit more. Sorry I was so stingy with my estimate. :angel:
Nice pick-up anyway. :yahoo::wavemulticolor:
Maybe I overpaid :) There were 4 active bidders and two of them were quite upset (haha see what I did there) when they didn't win. My first experience of a Facebook auction was not a particularly good one.
Cool error regardless.! :ok:
Quote from: 'markn' pid='78045' dateline='1440197795'...Facebook auction was not a particularly good one.
Facebook auction? Not whatsername's group, I hope?
I assume my planchet fault here in a 1971 50c is not all that amazing, but if any of you error-seekers want it its a give-away :-)
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/11379/WP_20150824_0075B15D.jpg)
Cheers, the axeman!
deleted :(
Quote from: 'bmclean' pid='78207' dateline='1440410962'I assume my planchet fault here in a 1971 50c is not all that amazing, but if any of you error-seekers want it its a give-away :-)
TBH, it looks like PMD, judging from the blurry pic. If that's the case, not worth spending $1 to mail it anywhere.
And chance of better piccies?
Quote from: 'Fulvio' pid='78449' dateline='1440835431'Quote from: 'bmclean' pid='78207' dateline='1440410962'I assume my planchet fault here in a 1971 50c is not all that amazing, but if any of you error-seekers want it its a give-away :-)
TBH, it looks like PMD, judging from the blurry pic. If that's the case, not worth spending $1 to mail it anywhere.
And chance of better piccies?
What is PMD? Once I know what PMD is I will check and if its not, I will try for a better photo. Otherwise sounds like not worth the effort hey :-) Cheers.
"Post Mint Damage". THat is the coin has suffered some accident in circulation.
Quote from: 'JeffH' pid='78452' dateline='1440838144'"Post Mint Damage". THat is the coin has suffered some accident in circulation.
Yeah, what he said. Sorry, I assumed everyone knew. My Bad.
To elaborate...
It looks like there's a cut in the coin. That, absent better imagery, suggests damage rather than a flaw, because...
Planchets are cut from a roll of metal. If that metal sheet has a flaw in it, generally being known as a cold shut, that flaw will take one of two forms.
It can be like a 'splice' where two pieces are rolled together and fail to properly bond into a single piece. or it can be like a chunk of metal pressed into the sheet, also not fusing into one intact whole. Think about how loaves of bread turn out depending on how the dough is handled. ;)
Now, when you cut a row of planchets out of it, you'll get either a 'tear' across the row of planchets, which will typically show as a line that flakes away, or perhaps as an internal fault that eventually splits the coin in two, depending on the size and alignment of the join.
If its an inclusion, you will see the piece eventually fall out, leaving a crater where it used to be.
But what we see here appears to be neither of those. What it does look like is as if someone took a pair of sidecutters to the coin, after it was minted. If you look through the forum, you will find pictures of coins which were argued over for some time, eventually reaching a consensus that they were in fact caught up in some mechanism, perhaps in a counting or vending machine. There was no other rational explanation for what we saw, on many different coins yet with no consistency.
Now, in the event that this IS actually a flaw, here's what to look out for. Again, there's at least one example here someplace that shows it nicely if you can find it.
The inside of the gap will tell the story. If it has a rough look to it, like you would get if you split a piece of granite or concrete say, then it may be a flaw that opened up under pressure, or an inclusion that fell out. If it has a smooth look, like a saw cut, and especially if its shiny, then it pretty much can't be a planchet flaw.
Have a good, hard look at it. Get some decent pics, or if you can't, and you think its real, send it to a member with a USB scope to image (or buy one, they're not that dear, and a pretty handy tool to have).
Does all that make sense?
Good summary.! Is a valley or depression in a coin considered as a cold shut or a planchet flaw. (mainly in pre decimal copper).
Quote from: 'Robster' pid='78455' dateline='1440845113'Good summary.! Is a valley or depression in a coin considered as a cold shut or a planchet flaw. (mainly in pre decimal copper).
It could be a cold shut, or it could be a strikethrough.
The way to tell is the edges.
Think of the difference between a cliff and a rolling hill. The cliff has a sharp edge and a relatively steep drop-off. The hill is more eroded, and curved.
Well, the cold shut leaves a cliff-like edge, because the pieces were literally one when struck, and when it falls out it leaves that sharp delineation. The strikethrough is more gentle, as the oil or whatever contaminant was on the coin spreads out and absorbs the energy.
Also, the bottom of the crater is a good indicator too. Again, the strikethrough is smoother. And generally shallower overall. Cold shuts tend to be relatively large, and extend deeper into the coin, though not always, whereas fluids on the surface have nothing to stop them spreading out, so they can be quite thin.
Oh, and both are flaws. Anything that isn't a variety or die damage error is a flaw.
Well we have heard how much Mark's 2001 20¢ upset is worth. Anyone want to hazard a guess on the value of mine.
I went to my upsets tray today to check that toe 2010 50¢ I am about to list is not better than any i have kept and found this one I noodled some time back. I had completely forgotten about it (old age strikes again)!
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10055/20C2F_upset_1.jpg)
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10055/20C2F_upset_2.jpg)
Very very nice Jeff!
It looks is great condition.
It is in rather good condition for a 14 year old, circulated coin.
So, better nick than our beloved forum leader's one but not as spectacular amount of rotation.
I am curious as to what the trade-off could be between those two factors. (Regardless, I am happy to have found it.)
Quote from: 'JeffH' pid='78908' dateline='1441527953'It is in rather good condition for a 14 year old, circulated coin.
So, better nick than our beloved forum leader's one but not as spectacular amount of rotation.
I am curious as to what the trade-off could be between those two factors. (Regardless, I am happy to have found it.)
Beloved? Ouch.
I'd give you $150-$200 it right now. .
Get thee behind me unbeloved!
wow - must be a good error jeff
Quote from: 'JeffH' pid='78906' dateline='1441524910'Well we have heard how much Mark's 2001 20¢ upset is worth. Anyone want to hazard a guess on the value of mine.
I went to my upsets tray today to check that toe 2010 50¢ I am about to list is not better than any i have kept and found this one I noodled some time back. I had completely forgotten about it (old age strikes again)!
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10055/20C2F_upset_1.jpg)
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10055/20C2F_upset_2.jpg)
This is a great coin JeffH I love it
:wavemulticolor:
Quote from: 'markn' pid='77985' dateline='1440113044'I just bought this one. I know what I paid but what do you lot think it's worth? No cheating if you already know.
(http://www.mycoinalog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/australia-2001-20c-upset-error.jpg)
Is yours rotated that way Mark as the two I have are rotated like Jeff's
Here's mine again
(http://i59.tinypic.com/mrzjmu.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2uxybtk.jpg)
only scans not pic's sorry
$100'ish each. Cool.
I'm not selling mate, I asked if your was rotated the same as the pic you put up as both of mine and Jeff's are rotated the same way but yours look opposite.
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='79108' dateline='1441858769'I'm not selling mate, I asked if your was rotated the same as the pic you put up as both of mine and Jeff's are rotated the same way but yours look opposite.
Thread Title:
"How much is this error coin worth?" The rotation on mine is different to yours. I have no idea what you mean by rotated the same way?
forget it
usually rotations are described as
Marks - 5.00 - 5.30 on the clock
AJ'S - About 9.15 on the clock
Jeff's - about 10.30 on the clock
yep - AJ I reckon Mark's is rotated almost completely opposite to Jeff's rotation
all are pretty groovy
Do collectors of rotated dies consider the amount of die movement as the main attraction, or is the actual positioning more important. Looking at the three examples you could say the coin at 5.30 has travelled further in a clockwise direction than the other two have in an anti clockwise direction. On the other hand the coin at 10.30 could be seen as travelling the furthest in a clockwise direction, but maybe the one at 9.30 is on it's second lap and by far has travelled the furthest :laugh2: :blush:
Sorry, this is a serious question, just couldn't help it as I'm still in frivolous mode after my recent retirement. :yahoo:
Quote from: 'autocoupler' pid='79122' dateline='1441897833'Do collectors of rotated dies consider the amount of die movement as the main attraction, or is the actual positioning more important. Looking at the three examples you could say the coin at 5.30 has travelled further in a clockwise direction than the other two have in an anti clockwise direction. On the other hand the coin at 10.30 could be seen as travelling the furthest in a clockwise direction, but maybe the one at 9.30 is on it's second lap and by far has travelled the furthest :laugh2: :blush:
Sorry, this is a serious question, just couldn't help it as I'm still in frivolous mode after my recent retirement. :yahoo:
It'd be great if the owners of the other coins coin post pictures of the edges of their coins so we could see where the first A in Australia lined up with the reeding. That way we could see if the obverse or reverse die was the one that was rotating.
oh
I thought form the pics that it is the obverse rotating
Quote from: 'robbiegal' pid='79130' dateline='1441923237'oh
I thought form the pics that it is the obverse rotating
I've done my pics that way simply because it always seems to be the obverse rotating on most Aussie rotated dies. The only way to be certain is to compare both sides of the coins with various rotations against a fixed point which is the reeding applied by the collar die. Assuming of course all the coins come from the same die pair.
good luck with the reeding settings as an indicator
my understanding is that isn't reliable
Quote from: 'robbiegal' pid='79133' dateline='1441923757'good luck with the reeding settings as an indicator
my understanding is that isn't reliable
Why's that Robbie?
The edge reeding moves. It doesn't stay fixed. The position is not reliable.
Quote from: 'robbiegal' pid='79144' dateline='1441947301'The edge reeding moves. It doesn't stay fixed. The position is not reliable.
I realise it can move when the dies are changed but was of the belief that while the dies were in the machine it didn't move. So, if you assume that all the upsets come from the same die pair then it's reasonable to assume that the collar die is fixed in place.
A similar deduction was made to work out that the obverse die on the 2001 COF upsets was moving. The reeding on all those coins is fixed with respect to the reverse of the coin. A similar observation can be made with the upset 1966 10c coins.
Of course I know you have someone you can ask to confirm the validity (or stupidity) of my theory :) Perhaps you could ask him and let us know?
Cheers mark just quick replies on my smoko break at work. I can ask but I do remember a conversation about the gallery presses and the reply was that the rim edging was not reliably in the one place and can or does move
Quote from: 'robbiegal' pid='79148' dateline='1441953920'Cheers mark just quick replies on my smoko break at work. I can ask but I do remember a conversation about the gallery presses and the reply was that the rim edging was not reliably in the one place and can or does move
Yes exactly that's because when they change a die in the gallery presses they more likely move the collar die as well.
One would imagine one die run which likely causes the same rotation problem (2001 COF, 1966 10c) would not have had the dies changed or adjusted. When you are talking another press or another time/date run of coins then the collar will likely be installed in the press differently
Despite claims the early $1 RAM Visitor Gallery coins could be distinguished by reeding v's mobile press $1 at ANDA shows etc I still find this a fascinating challenge to get genuine proof
I was always a believer in the edge reeding position as being a possible means of identifying a coin from the visitors gallery, it's just a pity the RAM doesn't record and publish when press and die maintenance is carried out on the gallery presses, but maybe they do :idea: The industry where I worked in mechanical maintenance was obsessive when it came to record keeping, and I bet many others are as well, so why not the RAM?
This issue need not even be a point of discussion if the RAM would limit their C mint mark solely to coins off the gallery press or as they have been doing in recent years and allocate a particular theme, they just need to remain consistent. :dash1:
I can (sort of) understand how reeding might play a part on $1 & $2 coins, but how the dickens could it do so with 20C? Isn't the reeding the same all the way around?
so how muchie for this one
(http://i62.tinypic.com/10egfg7.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2dhdulv.jpg)
Quote from: 'purplepennyhunter' pid='79153' dateline='1441957153'One would imagine one die run which likely causes the same rotation problem (2001 COF, 1966 10c) would not have had the dies changed or adjusted. When you are talking another press or another time/date run of coins then the collar will likely be installed in the press differently
Here's a pretty good summary:
(http://www.fleur-de-coin.com/images/articles/mintprocess.jpg)
"The collar is a circular piece of hardened steel which acts as the wall of the coining chamber, which provides the impression for the uniform circular outline around the coin. As its name implies, the collar prevents the striking pressure from spreading onto the flange. Apart from preventing imperfect strikes, the impression on the coin's edge (either as a recess or raised inscription) deters forgery or clipping (an illegal paring of metal from the circumference of the coin). The dies impress the various designs and devices on the obverse and reverse for the coin while the collar forms the edge of the coin. The collar, which is five-thousandths of an inch larger in diameter than the dies, is mounted on springs which allow slight vertical movement."Since the anvil die is always the reverse, and it is part of the assembly with the collar, it is not the one which rotates. Upsets occur when the locking pin on the hammer die breaks, causing the obverse to rotate freely.
Note that this is not the same as the minor rotations of a few degrees we see in many coins. They're just poor alignment during setup, and would be the same for all coins from that run.
Now, presumably, with a freely rotating die the laws of physics mean that each strike will cause it to move slightly
in the same direction. I'm not going to try and hazard a guess as to which way, since that would depend on unknown forces at play. But two coins rotated say 30° each way would in fact be 30° and 330° respectively.
When Goldy gets back, we can ask for his stats on the 2001 CoF upsets, since we know the die did at least one full rotation. The rarer angles would be at the end of the run, when the error was detected and fixed. For other years when the error was picked up quickly, all the rotations will be in the same direction, and this might tell us which way they spin.
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='79209' dateline='1442031459'so how muchie for this one
(http://i62.tinypic.com/10egfg7.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2dhdulv.jpg)
Gosh, I dunno, $20 and upwards I reckon. Never seen anything like it before to compare it with.
Thanks Nancy, I got a bargain. Shame it's a bit grotty but still very happy :)
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='79224' dateline='1442045562'Thanks Nancy, I got a bargain. Shame it's a bit grotty but still very happy :)
What did you pay for it?
Flaws like this are really, really rare, since they run through the sheet, not along it. Does the hole go all the way through?
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='79209' dateline='1442031459'so how muchie for this one
(http://i62.tinypic.com/10egfg7.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2dhdulv.jpg)
We have two pennies with holes through them like that on our site right now. I think we're asking $50'ish for them, which is the prices we'd be happy to pay for them. Yours is in the same ball park. Very nice error.
Wouldn't you like to know :P
:yahoo: a couple of bucks :angel:
Suss this thread Fulvio, I did it on white paper so you could see the hole better :good: I've seen it on 64's before but that's been about it.
https://www.australian-coins.net/showthread.php?tid=4049
Thanks Mark, yes I have noticed yours and they're nice looking coins alright :good:
I have sold mine for around $25 per coin but that was some time back
they are very cool error coins
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='79227' dateline='1442048184'Suss this thread Fulvio, I did it on white paper so you could see the hole better :good:
Awesome! So, wanna sell it? We could settle up what I already owe you as part of the package. :)
Nah I really like it and probably won't ever get another for a couple of bucks, so sorry mate this one has a permanent home :)
If I can ever come across another we'll see what we can do :winkextra:
I have turned up a number of virtually uncirculated $1 coins in my noodling this week. This one takes the pick so far (still have about $500 worth yet to go).
Scan won't show it but it is highly lustrous with a beautiful golden toning. Obverse is just as good.
A soak in acetone to remove the little bit of grime (more obvious in the scan than to the eye) should have a very good looker.
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10055/UNC_cud.jpg)
P.S. Have a look at the rim around 9 o'clock.
nice
and nice!
Quote from: 'JeffH' pid='79574' dateline='1442566644'P.S. Have a look at the rim around 9 o'clock.
I like rim cuds... how much to add it to my collection? :angel:
The question asked (by the thread -therefore the poster) is "How much is this error coin worth?". So, it is up to the other members to venture an estimate (not ask).
In this case, purely academic, as I don't think it will be up for sale.
I do have several other rim cuds of the 2001 Volunteers $1. Happy to sell them for a few dollars.
I think Fulvio is being enticed by a few of the lovelies that have been posted lately
Here you go Fulvio. Not quite as good condition but cheap.
2001 Volunteers $1 DOLLAR with Rim Cud error (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/262046840205?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649)
Quote from: 'JeffH' pid='79588' dateline='1442571416'Here you go Fulvio. Not quite as good condition but cheap.
$2.50 is quite acceptable. eBay.. not so much. I haven't given them any business at all since the great PayPal debacle when they showed their true colours.
Quote from: 'robbiegal' pid='79587' dateline='1442571408'I think Fulvio is being enticed by a few of the lovelies that have been posted lately
I'm always enticed. Whether that translates to an exchange is subject to all sorts of other forces however. ;)
Starting bid is what I am prepared to accept. I can always cancel the listing if, for example, a forum member wanted to buy it. How many of these do you want?
The 2001 Volunteers rim cud is quite common
Quote from: 'JeffH' pid='79591' dateline='1442572589'How many of these do you want?
How many you got? Bulk rates for pallet lots? ;)
It would actually be a very tiny pallet -no forklift required.
Back on topic...does anyone care to hazard a guess as to the possible value of the coin in question?
Quote from: 'JeffH' pid='79609' dateline='1442604114'Back on topic...does anyone care to hazard a guess as to the possible value of the coin in question?
No idea, but I am interested to know as I found my first rim cud recently. How often do you come across them?
Single Rim cuds are quite a bit easier to find than two rim cuds on the same side eg:
$1 2001 IYoV Rev 2 x Rim Cuds 7-7.45 & 8.30-9.30k-9k
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10007/_1_2001_IYoV_Rev_2_x_Rim_Cuds_6_30-7k-7_30-9l.jpg)
It would take a swag of dough to winkle this one out of my clutches. :angel: Even although I do have 3 of them.
As to the value for Jeff's good looker above, if I was after one in nice condition I'd expect to go in the $50 + depending on the actual condition, having only seen the Rev so far. :grin:
I haven't kept specific records but, knowing how many coins I noodle most weeks I would say around every 6000 coins.
The ones I have found more than once are;
•2005 WWII 20¢,
•1996 Older Persons $1,
•2001 Federation $1,
•2001 Volunteers $1 -two different locations and some have both.
Edit. I see Nancy has already posted a photo of a double rim cud.
Quote...only seen the Rev so far.
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10055/UNC_cud_c.jpg)
Quote from: 'JeffH' pid='79652' dateline='1442634132'Quote...only seen the Rev so far.
Before cleaning I take it? Is that a hint of fingerprint I can see? :(
As for rim cuds, I bought an UNC 2003 Suffragette from a dealer, and was quite surprised it had a rim cud. He was rather unhappy when I told him too. ;)
I probably should catalogue what I have, eh? :angel:
Oh, just had a thought....
Has anyone ever seen a rim cud on the Obverse? Cos I haven't.
Wondering if there's something odd about how they occur. Maybe the collar gets dropped during setup, and always chips on the bottom? *Shrug*
Did that thought hurt, sometimes mine do :winkextra: so I try not to do too much these days :blink:
Oh and I haven't checked any $1 but I've still been sorting coins and have 5 cent and $2 the have obverse cuds but most are on the reverse, hope it helps :D
Correct; scanned as found. Now soaking in acetone.
Faint fingerprint in two places. Hopefully acetone will reduce that.
I asked the question about obverse/reverse rim cuds here some time back -I have only ever found them on reverse. I was told my supposition is wrong and details of finds posted as proof (no photos; pity). A few more cud questions (https://www.australian-coins.net/showthread.php?tid=3001&highlight=cud)
I'll let you know about the dollars but pretty sure I have some on reverse and obverse so it's not just one side but reverse does seem the dominant side to get one :winkextra:
Ok here's a quick scan just so ya know I'm not BS'in :)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/smyi2u.jpg)
I'm sure I have others in most denominations but who knows I have so many errors I forget what I have now :blink:
and that's just for Jeff so everyone else please avert your eye away from the scan :laugh2:
and any idea what these would be worth??? I know the 5 cent would be more as it's in pretty good nick and especially for it's age.
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='79661' dateline='1442646928'Ok here's a quick scan just so ya know I'm not BS'in :)
Nobody would have accused you of that. :angel:
Interesting. OK, so from what I've seen, the collars aren't reversible. And these rim cuds as far as I can see are a product of the collar, not the face dies. I might be wrong there, but I'm going by edge breaks I've seen documented, which are generally pretty massive, and the resulting cuds cover large areas of the coin.
Now, I realise there's a step in the die, which mates with the collar, but no way could so many more or less identical breaks occur in that tiny area of a heap of dies. Which leads me to say its the collar. And clearly the bottom is subject to more damage than the top. In fact, as the top is sloped, I find it hard to think of how it could suffer the same type of damage, but clearly that (rarely) happens.
And I'm wondering if these are accidental damage or stress fractures as well.
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='79661' dateline='1442646928'and any idea what these would be worth??? I know the 5 cent would be more as it's in pretty good nick and especially for it's age.
To the average collector, nothing I suspect.
To those of us better informed... well, I would say if you take the baseline as double face value for a rim cud, you could double that again for being the obverse. Beyond that, someone would really, really have to want it I think.
Thanks Fulvio :good: I like them so they won't be going anywhere in a hurry :) Oh and with rim cud most of them end up on the left had side of the coin for some reason but I do have them on the right but like obverse a lot scarcer :winkextra:
I don't have any Obv Rim Cuds on IYov coins, but I do know I have them on other $1, will dig the info out tomorrow. Snooze time is nearly here.
any suggestions on how much this coin could retail for?
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10035/1964_bearded_queen_28229.JPG)(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10035/1964_bearded_queen_28929.JPG)
Quote from: 'Nevol' pid='79643' dateline='1442624670'Single Rim cuds are quite a bit easier to find than two rim cuds on the same side eg:
$1 2001 IYoV Rev 2 x Rim Cuds 7-7.45 & 8.30-9.30k-9k
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10007/_1_2001_IYoV_Rev_2_x_Rim_Cuds_6_30-7k-7_30-9l.jpg)
It would take a swag of dough to winkle this one out of my clutches. :angel: Even although I do have 3 of them.
As to the value for Jeff's good looker above, if I was after one in nice condition I'd expect to go in the $50 + depending on the actual condition, having only seen the Rev so far. :grin:
I just got a perfect uncirculated one of these today in a bulk lot of coins I purchased today! Apparently Grandma would put all new coins away in bank bags when they came out. Turns out she had the best idea how to store them (1 coin per bag) because they are all perfect coins!!!. Pics to follow soon
What's amazing is the cuds match perfectly, this coin was collected in Melbourne btw
Quote from: 'robbiegal' pid='80123' dateline='1443442839'any suggestions on how much this coin could retail for?
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10035/1964_bearded_queen_28229.JPG)(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10035/1964_bearded_queen_28929.JPG)
I paid $15 for a CHU+ full red at my local coin shop a few months back, but it didn't have a full Ming beard :angel: Wow, they don't come much more pronounced than that RG. Sorry, no idea about retail for that one.
Another amazing '64 Robbie.! More beards then ZZ Top.! :angel:
I have never seen a second one .... yet!
Geez, I don't know RG, between $40-$50 maybe, but it also has that wow factor, so I might be being a bit stingy. It's certainly got me :drooling: :drooling:
As discussed here it is, hard to photograph
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/11197/P9290326.JPG)
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/11197/P9290325.JPG)
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/11197/P9290324.JPG)
coo cuds
high grade too
$12 ?
Probably worth what an error collector is willing to pay
Not worth costs or effort selling best keep it
The double cuds on this particular coin is not scarce or rare but rather common. I have seen many of them.
Quote from: 'serial' pid='80141' dateline='1443503146'As discussed here it is, hard to photograph
Is that a cud on the right hand side?
And what's that in the left leaf at the bottom of the wreath above the 2?
No its not another cud, it is bright UNC and thus hard to photograph but its also not for sale. I find cuds to be rare in mint state and as the error market is still evolving I won't sell my coins anytime soon. I just thought you might like to see it.
there is a similar grade one on the FB page that I go to and it is up to $7
Quote from: 'robbiegal' pid='80205' dateline='1443655556'there is a similar grade one on the FB page that I go to and it is up to $7
I saw that too. Will be interesting to see what those enthusiasts bid it up to. If it doesn't go for much it just confirms my opinion on rim cuds, they aren't worth much regardless of the grade. Serial's coin is a nice one and you'd like to think it's worth more than $10-$15.