I would like to get back into coin pictures, so I will have a little practice to improve skills, would like to be able to get pics like the pcgs true view ones, would they be using a normal camera, and lighting, or some sort of editing program
http://www.australian-coins.net/showthread.php?tid=3876&page=2
original
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10011/threepence.JPG)
change background(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10011/pink_three.jpg)filter(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10011/pink_three_-_Copy.jpg)
Nice coin little mate and love the die crack :good: I think they'd have a pretty expensive set up and probably a special program but your pic's are good :winkextra: could probably do with a bit more lighting, Mark says you can never have enough lights :)
I think it's better with the black background.It makes the coin pop a bit more
Very acceptable pics A.C.! Just like grading coins, taking images can be downright frustrating at times.:dontknow:
Several of the members have contributed some great hints in the last few years with the resultant images being quite amazing.! Silver is much harder to capture than copper and threepences are difficult due to their tiny dimensions.!
I am currently choosing some threepences for a buddy so I will capture a few images and post a few on this thread.!
looks like a nice little die clash as well :)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2ushkzr.jpg)
So someone else gets stray hairs turning up too. That annoys me no end because I never notice them until I have loaded the picture up to the computer.
PS. I might have some spare threepences soon. No promises yet though.
Would they be using a normal camera, and lighting, or some sort of editing program
That would be "What is Normal".
Don't know what the "Slabbers" use but Heritage Auction House I do.
Heritage Auction House, Part of Coin Photography Room
(http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv160/ford_prefect/ACF%20Odd%20Stuff/capture-20150807-143817_zpsbfrb5gfn.png)
A work station
(http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv160/ford_prefect/ACF%20Odd%20Stuff/capture-20150807-143724_zpsxfrazmgz.png)
Canon 5D Mk111 Body about A$2500
Canon 180mm LSeries Macro Lens about A$2000
Calumet Travelite 750 single light about A$500
That's A$5000
Plus the cost of the custom camera and lighting unit stand.
Plus the cost of an attached Notebook and HD monitor
Yep some exspensive special stuff being used.:angel:
But:-
If you don't get the lighting right, what you spend on a camera won't make much difference.
For the little 3D I like to use
Two Desktop Lamps, fitted with 13W Cool White Globes positioned at 10AM and 2PM and about 300mm above coin
(Your image indicates a single light source and too close to coin)
The full image as taken on White background.
(http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv160/ford_prefect/ACF%20Odd%20Stuff/IMG_0023Bandi_zpsebp3czsi.jpg)
I use white as I check the image to ensure there is No Black Shadow on the circumference of the coin a little Grey is O'K.
And No hotspots on coin surface.
(An indicator that light source is too close to coin)
After checking all is O'K shoot the coin on White or Black either will work.
Then crop your coin image, using whatever background you like.
(http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv160/ford_prefect/ACF%20Odd%20Stuff/IMG_0023Bandi-crop_zpsnwchzr5d.jpg)
o nice top loop overdate
looking at the die clash, well its got wear and its a bit meh
you can see possible bits, but its not great, I have seen some that are a complete refection
laptop editing is a bit nasty, don't have the program to overlap images
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10011/th00582-o1.jpg)
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10011/two_28229.jpg)
Nice photos of the auction house photo room. I wish I had a full frame sensor DSLR.
Do you know if they play around with photo stacking at PCGS or at heritage?
I also use Axial lighting a lot with new coins as I hate getting the reflection of the camera on the coin and I have the camera mounted directly above the coins.
Axial lighting uses a bit of glass between the coin and the camera with a light shining at the glass not at the coin. Apparently there is special galls great for this but i stole some glass from a cheap photo frame.
photos below taken really quickly for an example photo 1 does not use the glass photo 2 does
[SIZE=600](http://www.coinerrors.co.nz/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/IMG_75183_resize.jpg)[/SIZE]
(http://www.coinerrors.co.nz/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/IMG_75190_resize.jpg)
It is "Impossible" to get an image of a coin the same as it looks "In Hand"
The best you can do is to be able to take an honest representation of the coin without filtering etc.
For Silver coins a "Grey" background works great with DSLR cameras :)
I imagine it would work well with the point and shoot jobbies as well :ok:
I have issues with my white balance for some reason one day I will sort that out lol
I get annoyed with online auctions people take blurry photos and call it a high grade and people pay through the roof for them but if you take photos showing detail and others showing lustre you get next to nothing for them
This one on trademe tonight went crazy the seller calls it EF but the kiwi side it is not even Good let alone VG or average in my opinion and I sell these for $10 lol
https://www.bidbud.co.nz/926414195
the glass idea sounds cool :) ah cant wait to try some of these new fancy things
Quote from: 'NZCoinerrors' pid='77284' dateline='1438944408'Nice photos of the auction house photo room. I wish I had a full frame sensor DSLR.
Your Canon 550D is plenty of camera for coins.
The Zoom lens you appear to be using (55-250 Kit?)
not so keen on, a dedicated Prime Macro could help.
If money was no object then yes, go for a full frame. :idea:
Quote from: 'NZCoinerrors' pid='77284' dateline='1438944408'Do you know if they play around with photo stacking at PCGS or at heritage?
Not to my knowledge. The Heritage mob have the photo room set up with rows for Gold, Silver, Copper and Other Metals and the camera's are set to suit the various metals. It's a production line.
Quote from: 'NZCoinerrors' pid='77284' dateline='1438944408'I also use Axial lighting a lot with new coins as I hate getting the reflection of the camera on the coin and I have the camera mounted directly above the coins.
Axial lighting, I'm not a fan of for Aussie Decimal stuff, seems to kill the high gloss look very quickly.
2008 Wedding Set 20c with Four 18W CFL's coming down from a great height(http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv160/ford_prefect/Wedding%20Set/IMG_0007-800_zpsraoudpbf.jpg)
That is one fabulous photo FP!
Yea My kit lens is not the best lol cant afford a decent macro but it does not help i cant decide what one I want lol.
And you are right the axial lighting does remove the gloss look. I guess it depends what you are trying to achieve I am generally interested in showing the die faults and cuds etc and a large portion of the coins I photograph are from circulation.
the 4 bulbs you have are they in something like this?
http://www.photoshack.co.nz/afawcs0142140/CATID=213/ID=297/SID=839294822/productdetails.html#.VcScX_mqpBc
Quote from: 'NZCoinerrors' pid='77291' dateline='1438948585'Yea My kit lens is not the best lol cant afford a decent macro but it does not help i cant decide what one I want lol.
Not a tough choice 2nd hand Canon 100mm macro USM at about $350-$400 or the 90mm Tamron 90mm macro New $370 bit less for a 2nd hand one but not that many appear for sale.
Quote from: 'NZCoinerrors' pid='77291' dateline='1438948585'the 4 bulbs you have are they in something like this?
http://www.photoshack.co.nz/afawcs0142140/CATID=213/ID=297/SID=839294822/productdetails.html#.VcScX_mqpBc
Very similar though mine are Two Bulbs in Two Reflectors bought from Bunnings Hardware as an end of line cheapy.
To maintain the flatter gloss less look but retain detail you could continue normal direct lighting but raise the coin 1mm at 6PM this
will decrease the light slamming direct on the surface.
(I generally avoid imaging Aussie decimals, much prefer Pre-Decimal)
2013 Lizzy Nose Run(http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv160/ford_prefect/Australian%20Coin%20Forum/Fridays%20Photos/IMG_0028-crop-800_zpsb3d4746c.jpg)
Quote from: 'Fordprefect' pid='77289' dateline='1438947029'Quote from: 'NZCoinerrors' pid='77284' dateline='1438944408'Nice photos of the auction house photo room. I wish I had a full frame sensor DSLR.
Your Canon 550D is plenty of camera for coins.
The Zoom lens you appear to be using (55-250 Kit?)
not so keen on, a dedicated Prime Macro could help.
If money was no object then yes, go for a full frame. :idea:
Quote from: 'NZCoinerrors' pid='77284' dateline='1438944408'Do you know if they play around with photo stacking at PCGS or at heritage?
Stunning pic that's awesome :wavemulticolor:
Not to my knowledge. The Heritage mob have the photo room set up with rows for Gold, Silver, Copper and Other Metals and the camera's are set to suit the various metals. It's a production line.
Quote from: 'NZCoinerrors' pid='77284' dateline='1438944408'I also use Axial lighting a lot with new coins as I hate getting the reflection of the camera on the coin and I have the camera mounted directly above the coins.
Axial lighting, I'm not a fan of for Aussie Decimal stuff, seems to kill the high gloss look very quickly.
2008 Wedding Set 20c with Four 18W CFL's coming down from a great height
(http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv160/ford_prefect/Wedding%20Set/IMG_0007-800_zpsraoudpbf.jpg)
Quote from: 'Fordprefect' pid='77279' dateline='1438938043'Would they be using a normal camera, and lighting, or some sort of editing program
That would be "What is Normal".
Don't know what the "Slabbers" use but Heritage Auction House I do.
Heritage Auction House, Part of Coin Photography Room
(http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv160/ford_prefect/ACF%20Odd%20Stuff/capture-20150807-143817_zpsbfrb5gfn.png)
A work station
(http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv160/ford_prefect/ACF%20Odd%20Stuff/capture-20150807-143724_zpsxfrazmgz.png)
Canon 5D Mk111 Body about A$2500
Canon 180mm LSeries Macro Lens about A$2000
Calumet Travelite 750 single light about A$500
That's A$5000
Plus the cost of the custom camera and lighting unit stand.
Plus the cost of an attached Notebook and HD monitor
Yep some exspensive special stuff being used.:angel:
But:-
If you don't get the lighting right, what you spend on a camera won't make much difference.
For the little 3D I like to use
Two Desktop Lamps, fitted with 13W Cool White Globes positioned at 10AM and 2PM and about 300mm above coin
(Your image indicates a single light source and too close to coin)
The full image as taken on White background.
(http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv160/ford_prefect/ACF%20Odd%20Stuff/IMG_0023Bandi_zpsebp3czsi.jpg)
I use white as I check the image to ensure there is No Black Shadow on the circumference of the coin a little Grey is O'K.
And No hotspots on coin surface.
(An indicator that light source is too close to coin)
After checking all is O'K shoot the coin on White or Black either will work.
Then crop your coin image, using whatever background you like.
(http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv160/ford_prefect/ACF%20Odd%20Stuff/IMG_0023Bandi-crop_zpsnwchzr5d.jpg)
Nice set up but the price is way out of my league so will have to stick to my little fuji :) and really nice pic's you take FP :good:
Quote from: 'Australian coin' pid='77282' dateline='1438940537'o nice top loop overdate
looking at the die clash, well its got wear and its a bit meh
you can see possible bits, but its not great, I have seen some that are a complete refection
laptop editing is a bit nasty, don't have the program to overlap images
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10011/th00582-o1.jpg)
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10011/two_28229.jpg)
I still think it's a nice little coin even if it does have wear :angel:
:laugh2: ...... AJ you kill me!
ooo nice pics fp
Quote from: 'Unicorn' pid='77304' dateline='1438990257':laugh2: ...... AJ you kill me!
Keep going and I will, I will :angel: :laugh2: So what, what did I do now :blush2:
(http://i58.tinypic.com/9gae1d.jpg)
:mocking:
I added 3 LED lights to my setup to add some more light.
It seems to work OK.
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10019/lights.jpg)
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10019/lights2.jpg)
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10019/lights1.jpg)
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10019/lights3.jpg)
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10019/lights4jpg.jpg)
Nice work Possum!!!
Quote from: 'Unicorn' pid='77338' dateline='1439022414'Nice work Possum!!!
Here are a couple of images just using the three LED's
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10019/79_1c1.jpg)
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10019/79_1c.jpg)
Wow aren't you getting the pro set up going now, anyone would think your one of the big boys now :blush2:
I like the rat on the one cent :laugh2: suss this german blokes description gee it cracked me up :blink:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmjdKa7b-cY
The 3 LED's were $25 each at Target, Cheaper for 3 of these than one OTT light :)
They have big paper clip type fittings that I have clamped to the tripod :good:
They seem to work OK and are a nice cheap option :)
Quoteanyone would think your one of the big boys now Blush2
The "Big Boys" have WAY flasher set ups than mine Mate :):angel:
:laugh2: ya wanna see my flash set up, go out side and look up for the light, it's what I use :winkextra: and my trusty little fuji and it does for what I want it for, just take error pic's, just wish I didn't shake so much so then I wouldn't have to take 500 pic's to get one good one but that's the beauty of digital is that I don't have to spend a fortune getting them developed so just delete what I don't want, usually 99.8% get deleted :laugh2:
great pics