Anyone know where to get clear plastic coin pocket sheets, 4 x 5 pockets per sheet?
Not 100% sure what you're after, check this out, 20 Pockets, 10 Pages, our very own Purple Penny. :angel:
http://www.thepurplepenny.com/20,20-pocket-coin-album-pages-for-2x2s-pack-of-10.html
Quote from: 'Nevol' pid='71425' dateline='1430113195'Not 100% sure what you're after, check this out, 20 Pockets, 10 Pages, our very own Purple Penny. :angel:
http://www.thepurplepenny.com/20,20-pocket-coin-album-pages-for-2x2s-pack-of-10.html
That's it, 20 pocket coin album pages, also I was looking at the cardboard holders to go into those coin pockets. Do you have different sizes, could not find on that website.
Quote from: '5 rubles' pid='71428' dateline='1430116381'That's it, 20 pocket coin album pages, also I was looking at the cardboard holders to go into those coin pockets. Do you have different sizes, could not find on that website.
If you're going to go to that expense, don't use cardboard 2x2's. They burst, especially with the larger sizes, because the glue lets go, and then you have zero protection from the atmosphere.
Use Saflips, which PP also sells. If you must use cardboard mounts, use the non-adhesive variety meant for stapling, and heat-seal them instead.
The self adhesives are just fine as long as you store the album Flat.
The staple jobbies are NOT air tight and there is a problem with nasty steel staples and they are aesthetically bloody awful.
The saflips ARE archival quality but heat sealing is a must.
I have had coins stored in self adhesive flips for years that have graded at PR70DC .
Regardless of what you use to house the coins archival pages and albums are a MUST. :ok:
Quote from: 'trout' pid='71440' dateline='1430120516'The staple jobbies are NOT air tight and there is a problem with nasty steel staples and they are aesthetically bloody awful.
Did I say staple them? Show me where I said that. :P
I said heat-seal them. I've documented that here before, look it up.
Basically, borrow the missus' iron and using a couple of calico bags to protect the cardboard, melt the Mylar together. Just be sure to stay on the cardboard and right away from the window, or you'll melt it.
Absolutely airtight and permanent. No good if you're a cheapskate reusing staple mounts, but bloody marvelous otherwise. AND cheaper than self-adhesives. Which, BTW, still burst when flat, at least with 50ยข coins.
Good advise, thanks, I hate those staples too as they look ugly and get stuck in the pocket when you pull the card out. Then the Saflips, aren't there too many layers of thick plastic that restricts the coin viewing, I want to pull the coin out and admire them sometimes. The ironing trick sounds good as a read from somewhere that the glue vapours is not necessarily good for the coins.
The other thing is the ring binder, I was going to use a cardboard type with a holder, the holder being the pocket where the binder slips into for storage. I always store them flat otherwise the coins rip the pages off the rings.
One more question, what is the logic of hermetically sealing the coin holder? many have been in the atmosphere for a 100 years so why is it so important now? also how do you treat the coins before sealing into a holder? wipe it with something to clean acids and other contaminants from its surface? I usually use a soft cloths to wipe off any loose grit and fingerprints but that's all.
Quote from: '5 rubles' pid='71490' dateline='1430204299'I hate those staples too as they look ugly
And they gouge and destroy the coin in the next mount if you don't handle them right.
Quotetoo many layers of thick plastic that restricts the coin viewing
Depends on the plastic. Saflips and any decent pages are Polypropylene, and ultra-clear.
QuoteI want to pull the coin out and admire them sometimes.
Saflips, unsealed, are your best bet if you want to pull the coins out from time to time. But folding them may not be enough to exclude air. You may have to keep them folded in Ziplock bags (without holes, obviously). And slipcases are good for keeping everything flat and square, yes.
Quotewhat is the logic of hermetically sealing the coin holder? many have been in the atmosphere for a 100 years so why is it so important now?
We're talking UNC coins here. Well-circulated coins have already been damaged, and a little more isn't going to make any real difference.
Nowadays the air we breathe is full of all sorts of nasty contaminants from our artificial environments. As my experiences with foam and carpets have shown, even apparently innocuous materials give off fumes that can go right through many plastics. It comes down to the size of the molecule versus the size of the holes in the material. A small molecule will even pass through Metallised BoPET (Mylar) relatively easily, which is why your Helium balloons deflate overnight. Whereas larger molecules can be stopped by just about anything. As I found out, LDPE has an open enough structure to let through the gasses given off by synthetics. PP is much better, and the ultimate is metallised BoPET, though being opaque is a drawback. ;) Have a read of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permeation and some of the linked articles.
We seem to have gotten ourselves into some kind of arms race, with MS70 being the holy grail. ANYTHING which detracts in any way is going to devalue our coins dramatically because of this. And since we can easily view the coin surface at huge magnification, its far more detectable than in the past. Rub a coin with a soft cloth then look at it at 200x magnification, and you can easily see the tiny scratches even the softest cloth will leave.
Of course, it does come down to what's reasonable and rational. You could strike a coin in a clean room, pack it in a sealed vacuum and store it in a deep underground vault, and it would stay pristine forever. That's pretty much what they do with certain articles, such as the Mona Lisa and the Declaration of Independence, but its way out of our league. At the other end of the scale is a PVC sack full of shrapnel buried in the back yard. Both extremes are ridiculous, but somewhere in the middle is where we need to be. Enough protection to not destroy coins, without spending more than the coins themselves are worth.
Its a fine line, and differs for each of us.
Quotealso how do you treat the coins before sealing into a holder? wipe it with something to clean acids and other contaminants from its surface? I usually use a soft cloths to wipe off any loose grit and fingerprints but that's all.
I wouldn't rub an UNC coin with anything. I do wash my better errors with warm water and soap, and towel dry, and I do use Acetone, RP7 and Olive Oil (very very carefully, having had two coins destroyed because they were overlapping in olive oil). Even the water can be a problem, and many people use only distilled water. Since I only wash coins that are already circulated, I'm not that paranoid, but YMMV.
Whatever you do, make sure the coin is absolutely dry before packing it away. Moisture is extremely bad, because a lot of the pollutants are water soluble, and will form acids that will eat your coins away inside their sealed packaging.
Nice info Fulvio, I will read further. I agree on the difference between UNC and old circulated coins, I was talking about older circulated coins which as you mention, already have lost their lustre so storing is not so critical. I just went through a box of coins that I have had since the 1970s and most of them have been in a big box, all mixed up. I collected them when I traveled around Europe. Some of them, especially the German Pfennings made of iron have corroded a bit an even stained other coins. I will try to clean some of them and put in a folder sorted by country.
My reason for packing them into a cardboard cover to write what they are, some of the old Eastern block coins such as Jugoslavijan and Bulgarian coins have slavic writing so even identifying them is a small job.
I agree that moisture is a reactant as it contains oxygen and reacts with just about anything, I can see how it eats into the car lacquer, leaving droplet shape pits when polluted air and rain water are left to dry. I think a way of reducing the amount of moisture on coins is to heat them up slightly before packing away, metal is often colder than surrounding air and form tiny amount of dew ready to start reacting.
The most interesting find was a 1809 US Cent, one of the most corroded and stained coin I ever had so had to clean it to identify what it was. I have no idea where I got it from. Maybe I brought it with me from my previous life... :)
:shock:If you are going to use staple get yourself a "flat clinch" stapler. They aren't expensive ($10.50 at Officeworks).
You could squeeze normal staple down with a pair of pliers. :shock:
Copper staples are available -they won't rust and leave horrible brown stains if the atmosphere is humid. (I put sachets of silica gel in my coin storage drawers to dehumidify the air.)