so who else here spends more on coin storage than raw coins. now I am not talking about the cost of boxed silver proofs, proof sets, mint sets, pnc's etc. I am talking about raw loose coins that you sort, grade then store.
I for one spend more on 2x2's, mylars sleeves and file holders than I do on my coins. however i think it is worth it when I see so many coins rescued from old tins, jars and envelopes where they have spent the last 40+ years of their lives just avoiding the damage that dooms the rest of the collection. it pains me to see mint state coins ruined by a spot of verdigrais or bag marks from bouncing around with hundreds of sub par coins
so I ensure that in my care they live to see another 40 plus years looked after for the next generation to enjoy
yah post 30
20 to go
I don't spend more on storage than on coins but I do spend a fair bit on supplies.
At the moment I have a large portion of my collection in 12x PPH 3 ring Binders.
each page takes 20 coins in 2x2's or saflips and you can get up to 30 pages in each album.
I store all my albums flat so no worries with the dreaded sagging coin in the self adhesive 2x2 drama.
All the storage items are PVC free and are a joy to use.
I only started to use these last year because I had damaged or ruined many coins in those bloody push in Danscos and Whitman albums.
I also had hundreds of coins in PVC rich albums but managed to salvage quite a large percentage of these with the aid of acetone as they were not too far gone.
Some however were ruined in only 3-4 years in the crappy PVC environment :dash1:
My Dollar coin collection will eventually be all in PCGS slabs which I will store in the blue boxes they supply when they post the coins back in.
This will take some time as I have hundreds of the little buggers to be graded.
I have also started to get my proclamation coins slabbed as well , That won't take long as I only have about 30 of these so far :)
I decided about 6 months ago that I would send all of my best coins to PCGS for slabbing.I've
sent about 60 coins so far with another 50 or 60 to go so you can imagine the cost there.
Needless to say I haven't been buying many coins lately
yes don't get me started on the cost of pcgs'ing my coins! 1 batch and I now look to buy things pre-slabbed if I want them in a slab
I might have to send a couple of coins of every 6 months via a 3rd party and just hope over time to catch up
Quote from: 'serial' pid='44886' dateline='1395814005'yes don't get me started on the cost of pcgs'ing my coins! 1 batch and I now look to buy things pre-slabbed if I want them in a slab
I might have to send a couple of coins of every 6 months via a 3rd party and just hope over time to catch up
It is actually far more economical to send large batches in for submission than several small batches.
The postage is the killer, both to the States and back.
If you send small batches 2-3 coins at a time it could work out twice as expensive per coin. :ok:
I was thinking of using ngc for some of the coins I have been uploading pics of
I do think slabbed is the way to go for your best coins but is dose work out costly. What is the avarage people are paying per coin with all other cost included? I'm based in the uk and send mine to Paris though my coin dealer and it costs about $75 each at today's exchange
What I don't understand is how you can purchase slabbed coins for less then what it would cost you to get them slapped. You will often see slabbed coins with good grades sell for 20/30$
I picked up a 1949m ms64rb for 50$ last year so I saved 25$ on slabbing and got a free coin
Some slabbed coins are barely worth the price of slabbing.That would generally be because the
original owner thought it would grade higher so they will sell it cheap and make money on the coins
that did grade better.As for cost I pay $25 for decimals usually up to a value of $300 and $40 for a
predecimal up to about $300 value and $65 per coin valued $300-$3000.These are through a third
party and are inclusive of freight to and from PCGS
I have started using quadrum capsules along with their lighthouse trays. If I upgrade a coin I can take it out and put it in saflip and post it and then the new one goes in the old holder. I think coins look great against the black holder and the red tray. It works out to $3-4 dollars per coin including both tray and capsule. For my common stuff or my detecting finds I throw them in self adhesive 2x2s and then into the big folder. Bullion goes into tubes, you just have to find a US size to match. And the really good stuff goes into a vault, which when I think about it kind of defeats the purpose of having coins and getting enjoyment from them.
stevo
can you please advise whom you do that through?
serial check out drake sterling
I will thanks mate. Believe it or not but u are not the first person to mention his name.just a pity he is over east
36 posts!!
keep ém up!! :yahoo:
Lol yes I have learnt that if I have consecutive Posts then they only count as 1 post so no more pics of coins till I get responses ;)
anyways
it's fun seeing the numbers go up for you!
and fun to have a few new members around too
I do like the look of that '27 penny of yours - It looks nice
Friday's Photos is a great thread to post coin pics (on Fridays!)
cheers
The hard part will be picking a coin. I don't usually post up so many pics but its been fun and I love how I can upload such hi res pics
Yes send your coins to Eric at Drake Sterling as I do.He'll
look after you
I will contact him and send a couple to test the water. Honestly I have hundreds of ms coins but just havent get comfortable sending stuff again after what happened last time. But its time to move on anger some stuff graded. Which one do you think I should start with?
Quote from: 'serial' pid='44881' dateline='1395812609'so who else here spends more on coin storage than raw coins.
Ah, you've hit one of my pet peeves! I'm constantly bemused by both the people who spend fortunes on storage and those who take advantage of them.
Basically, its all about environment. Presentation is very much a secondary consideration, because only a tiny percentage of our collections are ever viewed anyway. I see no problem with going all-out on presentation for those special items... Goldy's clockface at the mint leaps immediately to mind... I can't even begin to imagine the cost of building that display panel! But whether its a museum or a beginner's stash, the vast majority of our coins are stored in bulk, and cost is a major factor.
Consider your NCLT. Every single coin is wrapped up in layer upon layer of plastic, cardboard and whatnot, but I'll bet 99% of them are seldom if ever viewed. Only yesterday I witnessed some two-coin sets being broken apart, and I would say that in their 12-year life, they were only viewed two or three times. With the coins gone, all that packaging is now totally redundant.
If we are to focus on environment rather than presentation, or even snob value
("I only ever use Danish Lightbulb Premium Super-Deluxe Albums for all my coins!" :dodgy:), then it comes down to materials, not brands or form. And materials affect our collections in two ways. Their ability to protect contents from external environmental factors, and their interaction with the contents.
Taking interaction first, there have been a number of poor choices over the years, most notably early sets in PVC wallets! Plastics, papers, timbers and metals can all interact with coins (and banknotes) to damage or destroy them.
Paper - Though now almost entirely consigned to the scrapheap, paper was once produced with a chlorine bleaching process. This chlorine would subsequently leach from the paper over the years, forming acid which would destroy paper and metal it came into contact with. Almost all currently produced papers are safe however, and have been for some years now. Being labelled "Acid-Free" just raises the price... they're all acid-free anyway.
Plastic - Plasticity is a state, between liquid and solid. What we call plastics are polymers produced from hydrocarbons which start life as crude oil. Hydrocarbons contain carbon and hydrogen, and polymers are generally long-chain molecules containing these two atoms. The problems arise from reactive elements added to produce specific qualities in the end product. These elements, such as Chlorine and Sulphur, react readily and form acids. Not good to have near your collection! ;)
Wood - Wood is mostly cellulose, which is a sugar polymer. There is a reaction going on in it producing acetic acid which is highly volatile, and will attack substances it is not in contact with, especially with poor ventilation. That's why wooden cases tone coins.
Metal - Galvanic corrosion occurs between dissimilar metals in the presence of an electrolyte, as long as there is an conductive path between them. That electrolyte doesn't have to be battery acid. Even minute amounts of moisture in the atmosphere will do nicely over a long enough period of time.
So, what does all this mean for coin storage?
Basically, you want to use a non-reactive material to encapsulate your coins and exclude air and the many contaminants it contains. The easiest material to use is a plastic. And with the notable exception of PVC, most plastics are safe. All commercial storage products are made from one or another of a small number of materials:
Polyethylene - Low-Density (LDPE - Type 4) or High-Density (HDPE - Type 2) polyethylene is probably the most common packaging material in current use. It is safe for coin storage.
Polypropylene - While polypropylene (PP - Type 5) is most common as a solid used for everything from plastic toys and furniture to bottle tops, it is also produced as a clear film used to make storage pages. Note that PP breaks down with exposure to UV, which is why your deck chairs crumble. Don't leave coin albums in the sun!
Polyethylene Terephthalate - While hard to pronounce, (PET - Type 1) this stuff is also all around you. From the PET soft drink bottles to the BoPET (Biaxially-orientated PET, commonly known by the brand name Mylar) in your 2x2's and chip packets, you've got some near you right now. :)
Polyvinyl Chloride - The bad boy of the coin world, (PVC - Type 3) PVC owes its bad habits to the presence of Chlorine atoms in its molecules, and to the plasticisers which are added to soften and clarify it from its natural, hard white brittle form. PVC leaches these chemicals, forming acids which gobble up your treasures! Polyvinylidene Chloride (PVDC) commonly called Saran, also contains Chlorine, and is most used as a coating on other plastics used in food packaging, and used to be the basis for cling-wrap films (which are now polyethylene).
Poly(methyl methacrylate) - Lumped in as an "other" (PMMA - Type 7), PMMA is the Acrylic that PCGS slabs are made out of. Perspex, Plexiglas and other names all refer to the same stuff.
With the exception of PVC, most plastics are safe to use, and those that aren't generally have coatings or additives which degrade under certain conditions. The best known example is Bisphenol-A (BPA) leaching from polycarbonates. Not a big deal with CD's and DVD's, but kinda stressful for bottle-feeding mums!
So, where does this leave us as collectors, you may ask?
Ripped-off, for the most part. The market is full of ignorant and blatantly crooked manufacturers and traders. People still make coin storage pages out of PVC, even though they know the damage they do. Because its cheap, and therefore highly profitable. Dealers still sell them. Many because they just don't know, some because they don't care as long as they make a buck.
Collectors too are to blame. Ignorance is bliss, or so they say, and its easier to swear by brand XYZ than it is to learn what XYZ is made of, and massive markups are a result of that ignorance.
Plastics are produced in truly massive quantities for daily uses which must be exceedingly cheap. You can't wrap a potato chip in a $10 bag, because nobody will buy it. But you can wrap a coin in the same bag, which actually cost a tenth of a cent, and charge $10 for it. Because, you know, it has a cool name and maybe a hologram!
So do yourself (and your wallet) a favour, and do some research. Learn what things are made from, and buy appropriately. And invest in tools rather than materials. If the only difference between a sheet of plastic and a product on a dealer's shelf is the heat sealer used to make it, buy the sealer and make your own! This applies especially to the practice of sealing Saflips... sorry, but that's just plain dumb. Take a clever product that costs a premium because of its form, and then destroy that form, reverting it to something you could just as easily have made from the original material at a fraction of the cost... DOH!
Knowledge is power. Get to know the stuff you throw away every day, and you'd be surprised how much of it is perfectly suited to reuse as safe storage. Or continue to throw it away, then buy identical materials that cost a fortune. Your choice. :dodgy:
Some good points there Fulvio :good:
I must be doing something wrong tho because ALL my coins are placed in saflips/2x2's then stored in the appropriate albums, With the exception of a few kg's of pre decimal and decimal copper that are in icecream containers.
ALL my decimal coins are a minimum grade of ch Unc/MS64 , My pre decimals are not that flash But they all form parts of my collection.
I like to be able to view my coins on a regular basis and being stashed away in bulk packages is just not for me.
For me if I couldn't access any given coin without having to open various packages would defeat the purpose of collecting in the first place.
My $1 collection alone has cost me a few K so far so what's a couple of hundred bucks to make them presentable and ensure that they suffer NO damage :)
We all have different ways of storing our coins and presenting them.
As long as the coins don't get damaged then all methods are good.
Each to their own.
Excellent post Fulvio!
Lots of good info and ideas for people to think about.
The more you know about what you want to achieve and how it can be done, the better off you are.
I am not sure about the "rip off" comments though. For a commercial venture there are many products that would still need to be sold at a relatively substantial cost even of the product had zero cost to the retailer. Rent, insurance, wages, maintenance, stock storage, shipping, taxes, etc etc etc all contribute to costs which a retailer needs to cover. If an item is specialised and specially developed then those costs need to be covered too.
Trout, I don't think Fulvio was implying that you are dong anything the wrong way. You are clearly happy with your methods and that is all anyone could want.
I read Fulvio's post more as "If you are not happy with how you are doing things, here are some things to consider"
I wonder if Fulvios great summary is the basis of a Wiki article?
Nice write up. I actually have a lot of coins that I store in mylar by heat sealing then nice and snug so that 1 2x2 1/2 mylar can be made to store up to 4 coins in a sealed environment. I then store these in takeaway containers. I also have files that I use to store 2x2 that I intend to sell in the next 20 years. I have seen in the past the effect that storing 2x2s in PVC rich sleeves can have and how PVC can infect a sealed 2x2 over time so I only use mylar inert storage sheets now.
I would love to use cheaper household materials for this but what happens if in 20 years I open a container and find a whole box of coins ruined because I tried to save $10. It would devestate me and fincially isn't worth the risk of losing a heap of valuable coin
Quote from: 'Ozcoins' pid='44933' dateline='1395870945'I read Fulvio's post more as "If you are not happy with how you are doing things, here are some things to consider"
Correct.
As for the ripoff comments, I made them based on my personal experience as a consumer, retailer and wholesaler of storage products, and I stand by them.
Certainly there are costs involved in commerce. That's a given. And there is the necessity for profit. Take that away and few would bother to get out of bed in the morning, let alone market anything. And making an honest profit doesn't make someone a thief.
No, what makes them thieves is manipulating products and prices to make extra, excessive profits from specific customers. When product A sells for say one dollar, but by putting it in a different package, or calling it a different name, or selling it at a different time or place a vendor is able to get ten dollars for it, that's theft. And it happens all the time. Whether its a bottle of water selling for four bucks because of a captive audience, or a piece of plastic selling for double the price because its sold to a coin collector instead of a photographer, its a ripoff, and those doing the robbing should be ashamed of themselves.
Here's an excercise for you. Go to the chemist and price a bottle of Acetone. It will be around $10-12 for 100ml, depending on how greedy the chemist is. Now go to a hardware store and price it. Bunnings charge around $10 a litre, depending on pack size, with a 4l can being about $38. Now look up bulk prices. You will find spot prices are around $1 a litre. Now, in my book, a 1,000% markup is marginally justifiable, as it does include transport, taxes, packaging, etc etc etc, in much the same way that petrol goes from 6¢ a litre to $1.50 or so at the pump. But a 10,000% markup? Based on what, exactly? The cost of the chemist's university education perhaps? Or the typewritten label on the bottle? Get real. :P
Quote from: 'JeffH' pid='44942' dateline='1395875145'I wonder if Fulvios great summary is the basis of a Wiki article?
I think I've made my attitude towards wiki's clear previously. By all means, feel free to use anything I write without restriction. But don't expect me to do it. ;)
Quote from: 'serial' pid='44944' dateline='1395875348'what happens if in 20 years I open a container and find a whole box of coins ruined because I tried to save $10.
Valid point, which highlights the necessity for acquiring the knowledge to avoid this situation. I still meet people regularly who neither know nor care about the damage PVC is doing to their coins, and ignorance is not bliss, IMO.
That said, neither the price you paid nor the name on the label is going to affect the outcome one bit. What will affect it is chemistry. If you seal a coin in an acrylic case, whether that case has a PCGS label or an NGC label or no label at all makes zero difference to its longevity. And for that matter, whether its an acrylic case or a polypropylene or polyethylene pouch or bag also makes zero difference.
And finally... Trout... ah, dear Troutski. :angel:
Mate, let me give you an example of where I'm coming from, and how I got there.
I've just acquired some coins from a forum member. Which I've just started to examine. I'm now the proud owner of 114 1954 Coronation Florins. They're not MS-anything. They never will be. All are worn. Some already have cancer. Most are dirty, and may or may not clean up.
They're worth four bucks each as scrap. A few might be worth two or three times that, but for the most part, its the metal, not the coin, that holds the value. External factors like who's shooting at whom where, or what the chinese, greek or outer mongolian economy is doing will affect their value far more than whether they're in a self-adhesive or stapled 2x2, saflip or bank bag.
If I want to preserve these coins, I need to prevent air and moisture from coming into contact with them. Clearly its too late, but say for a moment its not, just for argument's sake...
Can you explain to me how spending $25 on saflips is in any way better than sealing these coins in bank bags which we get for free? Even with the acetone and labour to remove the printing, I think its a no-brainer. Even lacking a heat sealer and instead covering the holes with sticky tape, its still a no-brainer. And jamming 40 coins into each bag to form rolls, as I've done for now, even that is preferrable to having them loose in an old biscuit tin
(or hat, sock or whatever :dodgy:) for that matter, isn't it?
Wasn't it you who was on the anti-packyboxyitis bandwagon not that long ago? What's changed, mate? Somebody from PCGS slip you the blue pill or something? ;)
QuoteThey're worth four bucks each as scrap. A few might be worth two or three times that, but for the most part, its the metal, not the coin, that holds the value. External factors like who's shooting at whom where, or what the chinese, greek or outer mongolian economy is doing will affect their value far more than whether they're in a self-adhesive or stapled 2x2, saflip or bank bag.
These I would simply chuck in my silver scrap bucket along with the polished and otherwise ruined silver coins.
They are silver bullion scrap so a bit of tarnish is of NO consequence whatsoever.
QuoteWasn't it you who was on the anti-packyboxyitis bandwagon not that long ago? What's changed, mate? Somebody from PCGS slip you the blue pill or something?
Nothing has changed, I still remove my coins from the Mint packaging especially the PVC crap they still insist on using with the PNC coins.
I HAVE been busy sending coins to get graded/slabbed but that is a two way thing.
1. It ensures that when I fall off the perch my missus will get full value for my coins and wont get ripped off by some shonky coin dealer.
2. I have been buying coins and getting them slabbed purely as a way to reap the rewards of selecting the better coins and making a few quid out of them.
Nothing different from all the noodlers out there going through the banks coins and selling them.
I am simply making a few quid using the hard earned and sometimes expensive knowledge it have garnered over the years.
12 months ago I was a hard core anti slabber and hated the bloody things.
I now not only see and understand why getting coins graded and slabbed is a bloody good idea, I am now learning how to do this and select the coin type and grade required .
My grading skills have become far more advanced by doing this as well.
Getting back to the subject;
My coin collection is just that a "collection" and I WILL spend a few quid on the best available products to ensure my coins integrity and ease of access also display properties.
That's just Me , if I really wanted to save money I wouldn't buy coins in the first place.
At the end of the day it is a personal choice about what you want to achieve out of a collection and what you are willing to pay to achieve that goal .
I would NOT enjoy looking at my coins in "Home Made" flips or reused plastic baggies and I CHOOSE to try and get the best supplies for the job.
Like I said , Each to their Own :ok:
Quote from: 'trout' pid='44951' dateline='1395882730'At the end of the day it is a personal choice
You left out one word... "informed".
There is a world of difference between an informed choice, arrived at after considering and discarding other options for the one which best suits your style, and simply going by what you are told, usually by someone trying to make a quid off you.
Fortunately, neither you nor I, or indeed most forum members are in that latter category. But its a big majority of the population, I would argue. And I think one of the best things about a forum like this is it can help people gain the knowledge and experience to transition to making their own informed choices.
:( I hate how ALL my collecting costs me a bucket in storage but if you want to get better money for them in the future you HAVE to protect them or pay the price in getting less for them when it's time to sell..I have changed 3 bloody times with my coins so now waiting for a new system that will cost me a motza..other than that I'm staying out of this one sorry..each to there own, just make sure it's not PVC ;)
AJ,
I would have thought that Fulvio's post would be perfect for you to work out a lower cost storage system.
I have a bunch of low value (but nicer than average circulated condition) circulated coins and I need to
A. Do a bit of a cull
B. Decide on a proper storage method
The few that are actually worth anything are in 2x2s (or temporarily in separate labelled envelopes or zip lock bags) so they do not get accidentally spent.
Fulvio's ideas are good enough for someone who has bulk coins and doesn't care to look at them. If you've got higher grade coins and want to put them in a holder and actually look at them (as opposed to looking at PE bags and rubber bands) then you're going to need real storage accessories. And you're going to need to pay for it. While the initial cost might seem high it's amazing how long they can last. I bought 200 PE album pages more than 5 years ago (at about $275 or so) and I still haven't used them all. And I am still using the same half dozen PP folders with slip covers I've had for years.
And I'll completely disagree with him with regards to heat sealing SAFLIPs. I do not care to have my coins in heat sealed PE bags in album pages because it looks crap.
With regards to the cost of our accessories, I can assure the profit margin is slim at best. And we'd be much better off (from a business point of view) getting out of the accessory business and concentrating 100% on coins. But proper coin storage is a passion for PPH and she wants as much good storage out there as possible because she feels like she's doing her bit for the hobby. But I swear with the amount of time she spends packaging it all up and mailing it out and how long the stock takes to turn-over she'd be better off doing something else.
Like Mark says Oz it's ok for bulk but when you like to look at them it's a bit hard. Yes I hear ya Mark but thank god for PP as it's a great sevice to the hobby just sorry it doesn't turn over quicker or as much profit but then not everything has to be about profit as you'd still collect even if you didn't make any money wouldn't you because I know I would because I like doing it even though it does peave me off sometimes, but yeah I agree :winkextra:
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='45064' dateline='1395959782'Like Mark says Oz it's ok for bulk but when you like to look at them it's a bit hard. Yes I hear ya Mark but thank god for PP as it's a great sevice to the hobby just sorry it doesn't turn over quicker or as much profit but then not everything has to be about profit as you'd still collect even if you didn't make any money wouldn't you because I know I would because I like doing it even though it does peave me off sometimes, but yeah I agree :winkextra:
No, everything is not about profit and that's why we stick with selling the accessories.
:thank_you: and that is why I buy from you's when it's time and to support fellow members :hi:
Quote from: 'markn' pid='45058' dateline='1395957612'I do not care to have my coins in heat sealed PE bags in album pages because it looks crap.
I'm not going to argue that PP isn't better than PE. Its stiffer, flatter, clearer, certainly. What it isn't is free.
But it needn't be overpriced finished product either. The raw material is comparably priced, and it seals the same way that PE does. Yes, the quantities are insane... a roll would last a lifetime... but this is where a group could do something an individual wouldn't.
For that matter, it is even possible to match the professional production systems on a shoestring. Hobbyists in other fields have built ultrasonic welders for next to nothing. The dearest part of the process is the tooling for the horn. But once that's been made, you can churn out your own saflips or pages by the zillion for peanuts.
But regardless, my point was that we all need to be aware of all the options, including recycling. There is no single universal solution. My own collection is stored in at least a dozen different ways. I've used up several boxes of Ultra-Pro pages
(left over from my wholesaling time), and I was buying 2x2's by the thousand. But knowing what I know now, I can avoid buying more of either.
Oh, and speaking of 2x2's, I've mentioned this before, but its worth repeating. If you have self-adhesive ones and they're opening up, they're no longer providing any protection. Instead of switching to staples
(which can destroy other coins), use an iron to weld them shut. Just use fabric
(bank sacks work nicely) between the iron and 2x2, and make sure you stay over the cardboard and away from the window or you will put a hole in it. Of course this also works with the cheaper stapled variety, as long as you realise its permanent.
When it comes to coin storage, I'm a tightass.
What little money I do have, I like to throw at coins
not storage.
I use cut down A4 paper boxes from work, so cost is nil.
The extra bits from the sides make great dividers.
The only cost is the 2x2s, which I bring in from the U.S.
to save money as well. I can store about 500 coins in a box.
Great space saver too. I have 17 of these and there are all
stored on one shelf in a cupboard.
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10113/Coin_storage_1.jpg)
(http://www.australian-coins.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10113/Coin_storage_2.jpg)
nice job Steve, but there'd be a bit of weight to be luggin around so might help with security as well as I can only imagine how heavy they are ;)
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='45074' dateline='1395961277':thank_you: and that is why I buy from you's when it's time and to support fellow members :hi:
ditto.
A few months ago I blew a weeks wages on Purple Penny albums as my Christmas present to myself.
Best present I've had in years.
Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='45148' dateline='1395999368'nice job Steve, but there'd be a bit of weight to be luggin around so might help with security as well as I can only imagine how heavy they are ;)
You're not wrong A.J.
I just grabbed a box at random and weighed it, it is 4Kg
and that is not the heaviest one.
wow and there's 16 more
Quote from: 'Triggersmob' pid='45147' dateline='1395998995'I use cut down A4 paper boxes from work, so cost is nil.
The extra bits from the sides make great dividers.
Oh, I
LIKE this idea! So much better than my milk crates full of sacks. The only change I'd make is my homebrew plastic 2x2's instead of cardboard ones. I have been putting 2x2's in plastic slide trays, but haven't really been happy with the solution... slides don't have tabs on top, and I've had to sit them in sideways, which bugs me.
And yeah, weight can be a positive... I keep saying if the Beagle Boys ever raid the old money bin, they better bring a forklift and a semi-trailer! :)
Quote from: 'bjacoins' pid='44901' dateline='1395828104'I have started using quadrum capsules along with their lighthouse trays. If I upgrade a coin I can take it out and put it in saflip and post it and then the new one goes in the old holder. I think coins look great against the black holder and the red tray. It works out to $3-4 dollars per coin including both tray and capsule. For my common stuff or my detecting finds I throw them in self adhesive 2x2s and then into the big folder. Bullion goes into tubes, you just have to find a US size to match. And the really good stuff goes into a vault, which when I think about it kind of defeats the purpose of having coins and getting enjoyment from them.
I have just discovered these as well. I'm starting a collection of proof coins and wanted something they would look good in and these popped up in my search on ebay. I now have about 12 proof coins in these little square slabs and they look fantastic. And I am happy enough to leave them in there for good, or until I update a coin.
Quote from: 'Triggersmob' pid='45152' dateline='1396001447'Quote from: 'ausjack' pid='45148' dateline='1395999368'nice job Steve, but there'd be a bit of weight to be luggin around so might help with security as well as I can only imagine how heavy they are ;)
You're not wrong A.J.
I just grabbed a box at random and weighed it, it is 4Kg
and that is not the heaviest one.
I can just see that shelf starting to dip with the weight.
QuoteI can just see that shelf starting to dip with the weight.
Fortunately it is reinforced with a cross bar. :)